While grand crus are top drawer, it’s not uncommon to find premier cru (the level below grand cru) quaffs that are just as memorable as the former. Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, for example, sits in Cote de Beaune’s commune of Volnay, where there are no grand cru plots. But the estate’s premier cru wines have a cultish following, thanks to the efforts of Guillaume d’Angerville, who took over the property after his father’s death in 2003. D’Angerville got rid of chemicals in the vineyards and adopted biodynamic viticulture. One of the domaine’s excellent wines is Premier Cru Taillepieds, which underwent an erratic growing season (including a July hailstorm that caused significant damage) until the tail end of summer, when sunny and dry days gave the fruit much needed vigour. The wine’s trademark spicy dark fruit is matched by mineral accents and gripping tannins. Put this youthful gem away in the cellar for another five to 10 years.
Premier Cru Taillepieds 2013