“If you really love what you do, would anything else matter?” – LG Han
“Being Michelin-starred is one thing, staying in business for 10 years is another,” says chef LG Han, founder of the one Michelin-starred restaurant, Restaurant Labyrinth. A fearless proponent of ‘Neo-Sin’ (neo-Singaporean) cuisine, the banker-turned-chef has been on a quest to elevate the country’s culinary culture on the fine dining stage—a journey that has seen him overturn preconceived notions of what Singapore cuisine ought to be, and the fickle ebb and flow of the F&B business.
In chef Han’s hands, quintessential Singaporean dishes like Chilli Crab and Orh Luak are deconstructed, reimagined, and elevated with refreshing textures, surprising expressions and, of course, top-drawer ingredients and superlative techniques. The Chilli Crab, for instance, is transformed into a cold sorbet-like dish. Instead of a greasy oyster omelette, Restaurant Labyrinth’s Orh Luak is presented in the form of a takoyaki ball, topped with caviar, no less.
Restaurant Labyrinth’s menu has earned it numerous accolades, including a Michelin star (consistently retained since 2017) and a place on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for four years running. In offering diners a unique gastronomic experience, chef Han also emphasises the use of locally sourced ingredients.
Han’s passion for preserving and evolving Singapore’s culinary heritage is palpable. Dining at Restaurant Labyrinth is not just about enjoying good food, it’s about immersing oneself in stories that connect to Singapore’s culture and history.
Can you share a piece of well-heeded career advice?
Be bold. Do not be afraid to express yourself, and tell the story that’s true to who you are.
What is a challenge faced by F&B right now?
Being sustainable. We try to ensure our ingredients are farmed and sourced in a sustainable manner, but it is a challenge. If we’re using cod fish and it’s being shipped in on a plane, that’s fuel oil burning through the skies. On a ship? That’s fuel oil burning through the seas. From Malaysia? It comes out on a truck and that’s diesel fuel–not sustainable. It’s not easy to be sustainable right now; maybe in Europe you can, but not in Southeast Asia yet.
What project or idea are you most excited about right now?
I recently kickstarted a new F&B concept with three other investors. Har Har Chicken serves up food such as chicken wings, chicken burgers and popcorn chicken marinated in prawn paste; we’ll be having three pop-up stores opening within six months.
What would be an alternative career path for you if you weren’t a chef?
I mean, I was a banker. (laughs) No, I’d probably be an architect.
Photography by Franz Navarrete / Hair & Makeup by Greg’O
