The Answers With… Francis Kurkdjian, a legendary perfumer on creative expressions, work-life balance, and of course, fragrances
“I love the idea that everybody can express a part of themselves through their perfume,” says Francis Kurkdjian, who created his debut fragrance, Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier, in 1995. Despite his stellar track record—the 55-year- old is behind bestselling perfumes for illustrious fashion designers and luxury houses, including Rick Owens, Hedi Slimane and Dior, and established his eponymous fragrance house in 2009— Kurkdjian is constantly exploring the art of creating fragrances in unprecedented ways.
He has pushed the boundaries of traditional perfumery by creating unique olfactory experiences for art exhibitions, dance performances and public installations. These extraordinary contributions to perfumery and the arts earned him the title of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture in 2008. The accolade is awarded to those who have made significant contributions to the arts, literature or the spread of culture.
At his eponymous fragrance house, which was acquired by LVMH for an undisclosed sum in 2017, Kurkdjian continues to champion innovative approaches and the use of high- quality ingredients. The imaginative scents that he has created include the iconic APOM (A Part Of Me) fragrances. In 2021, he was appointed creative director of fragrance at Parfums Christian Dior, further cementing his status as one of the most revered figures in the world of fragrance.
If you could invite any three people, living or dead, to a dinner party, who would they be and why?
I would invite those I love and share deep connections with, both in passions and values. Fabien Ducher, the world- renowned rose breeder with whom I’m collaborating on a new naturally fragrant rose; actress Catherine Deneuve, who has inspired a fragrance in one of my collections; pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque, whose music I adore; and chef Anne-Sophie Pic.
What is your most cherished possession?
I am not materialistic nor do possessions drive me. What I value most is the balance I’ve achieved between my personal life and my work as a perfumer.
If you could capture the scent of a place that makes you feel happiest, what would it smell like?
I captured sweet memories in my Homes Sweet Home candle collection, inspired by places that hold a special meaning for me. Rue des Groseilliers recalls the street where I grew up, evoking the bright red berries from our garden every summer. Anouche is inspired by my grandmother’s rose and plum jam recipe. The newest candle, Es Cap, reflects a tiny village in Formentera where I spent my vacations, with the scent of fig trees in the background.
What’s a belief or value that you hold deeply?
Dreams are meant to become reality, making room for new ones. I believe it’s part of my mission to open new paths and challenge my era to reflect on the meaning, importance and status of fragrance. For me, modernity lies in pushing— not breaking—the boundaries. Of course, hard work and dedication to the craft are essential.
If you had to pick a song that represents your life right now, what would it be and why?
Guess by Charli xcx, featuring Billie Eilish.
How do you recharge or find peace in the midst of a busy or stressful time?
Maintaining a balance between work and personal life is key. I enjoy visiting museums, exhibits, the opera, or ballet, and spending time with friends and family, often hosting them at home in Paris. For relaxation, I work out with my personal trainer in the early mornings.
What’s something ironic that most people don’t know about you?
I don’t wear perfumes.
How do you approach the creative process when designing new fragrances?
I don’t follow trends; I create to express emotions, much like a composer writes music. For me, this is how marketing and creation diverge. I want to offer beautiful emotions through scent, allowing everyone to interpret them in their own unique way.
What inspired you to blend the unique qualities of APOM Femme and APOM Homme to create the new APOM?
For starters, I love the name APOM—an acronym for A Part of Me—and how the fragrances evoke the intimate whisper of your breath on a loved one’s neck. They symbolise the personal connection we share through fragrance; the sensual yet bright sillage embodies that feeling, reflecting how we leave a part of ourselves with others. I wanted to reconnect with that story. Hence, I revisited the original duo of fragrances I launched in 2009, combining the best elements of both the feminine and masculine versions into a new scent.
How did you create a distinction between these three APOM fragrances?
I embraced pentimento, like a painter revisiting their work to refine it. Also, I didn’t create the latest APOM with a specific gender in mind; I focused on offering something for anyone who loves to share their scent with the world.
This story first appeared in the November 2024 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
