From Breitling to Bulgari, these are 21 of the coolest watches dropped in the hottest month of the year
Summer is officially coming to an end. The Olympics are over. The kids are going back to school. The watch industry is emerging from holiday, and new watches are beginning to flood in. So far this month, we’ve already shared some new releases, from Porsche Design’s new chronos celebrating 50 years of the 911 Turbo to Vacheron’s latest Metiers d’Art watches. In addition, Audemars Piguet unveiled three new Royal Oak Offshores and Grand Seiko debuted two limited edition U.S. exclusives. Now, with Geneva Watch Days underway, new launches abound. We’re seeing new models from Massena LAB, H. Moser & Cie., Mortiz Grossmann, Gerrard Perragaux, the independent watchmaker Ming, and more.
Here are 21 of the coolest watches dropped in August.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone Serie Atelier V1
Laurent Ferrier’s roots trace back to the famed 24 Hours of Le Mans during which François Servanin and Laurent Ferrier, the two men who would become the brands founders, first connected in 1979. The brand continues its legacy in the way of motorsport-inspired models through its Auto collection. The past couple years, we’ve seen ultra-sporty versions, from a classic blue interpretation to one inspired by the Porsche 935 Turbo No. 40. For the newest addition, we get a more refined take that tows the line between sport and dress watch. The new Classic Auto Sandstone Serie Atelier V1 features the iconic round, pebble-shaped case from the Classic collection along with a neutral colour palette, from the sandstone dial to the brown calf leather strap. Yet inside you’ll find the robust LF 270.01 automatic movement, initially designed for the Sport Auto and paying homage to the brand’s first automatic movement, the Micro-Rotor with a natural escapement. This marriage of styles comes together in perfect harmony for this limited edition of just 20 pieces.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkunst
Oof, that’s pretty. To celebrate 25 years of the Datograph, Lange has created just 25 of these incredible hand-worked chronos. Rendered in a sublime yellow gold with a highly textured gray dial with yellow-gold markers and text, the calibre L951.8 still may steal the show. Black-finish polishing of the bridges and levers throughout creates one of the most visually stunning movements available today—perhaps ever—while the intricate and unabashedly thick componentry becomes a metropolis of micro machinery that rewards long gazes with a loupe. With it’s big date and chronograph functionality, the Datograph has long held a heralded spot in both the Lange catalog and in collectos hearts. Available only at select Lange boutiques.
A. Lange & Sӧhne Datograph Up/Down Hampton Court Edition
A one-of-a-kind Lange to be auctioned on November 9th at Phillips to benefit the UK’s Prince’s Trust, started by now-King Charles III—well, that’s going to fetch a pretty penny, as it should and surely will. Charity watches have a way of escalating at auctions, and Lange’s watches have just continued that slow and steady rise into the realm of coveted collectibles. With a gorgeous slate gray dial and engraved hunter caseback, one is going to be tempted to prop this one on the desk to take in the 451-part calibre L951.6. Like all Lange’s, the movments can captivate you for long stretches, esepcially with a loupe magnifier.
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance
Dual movements make up one of the more intriguing dual-time complications on the market today inside this white gold watch with new ic-blue sub-dials. Or are those just two maiin dials, as there’s really no main dial, given the exposed nature of this configuration. It’s a handsome bit of machinery, rendered with exceptional symmetry and none of the slow-moving gear train on the visible side of the watch. However, the mechanically-minded among you may have noticed the linkage between the two balance wheels at the top of the non-dial, which is a contact point through which resonance is passed between the two to improve isochronism. Dating back to the Enlightenment and Breguet’s constant tinkering, this complication is best known in F. P. Journe’s emonymous Resonance watch, but JPF is no longer the only game in town.
De Bethune Aérolite
This 39 mm black zirconium case with De Bethune’s signature hinged lugs is married to a blue meteroity dial, and the vibes land somewhere between dreamy and tech-chic. The dial may look a bit crazy, but that’s De Bethun’s take on guilloché. This wath is in no way typical, but it is perhaps typical of De Bethune’s singular aesthetic.
Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph
Since William Massena founded his namesake studio Massena LAB in 2018, we’ve seen it lean into the “collaborative” side of the “LAB” on numerous occasions. This year alone, the brand has embarked on some incredible partnerships that have resulted in some exceptional watches, from the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition developed in collaboration with Phillips and renowned designer Raúl Pagès to the solo mashup between Massena LAB and Pagès, the Absinthe. Today, the brand unveils its latest collaboration: the Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph. Albishorn is an independent Swiss watchmaker who harnesses horological history to craft original and distinctive timepieces that echo the past without replicating it directly. The brand brings this passion to the collaboration with Massena LAB with the Maxigraph, a design that imagines what a modern-day regatta chronograph might have looked like in the 1930s. This monopusher chronograph features an automatic, Swiss-made, proprietary calibre with a patented ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown, positioned at seven o’clock. Unlike a typical regatta timer, the Maxigraph’s timer stops once ten minutes have elapsed and while the seconds of the chronograph continue running. The countdown is then reset by stopping and resetting the chronograph using a single, red aluminium pusher at nine o’clock.
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Mone Venice
There are three limited edition Reversos celebrating Claude Monet and Venice Italy simultaneously, and they are crafted in white gold with JLC’s well-known Métiers Rares™ Atelier taking care of recreating the artwork on the backside of the flippable watch. Only 10 of each model will be created, and you have the choice between the Grand Canal (pictured), San Giorgio Maggiore at dusk, or The Doge’s Palace, each famous locations on the watery Italian city. The Mechanical calibre 822 ticks away inside.
HYT T1 Millésime Edition
You know when a brand claims that a 45 mm watch is “more compact” and “slimmer” that this company makes some huge watches. And so it is with HYT, whose T1 model with signature hydraulic components in the movement (and displayed on the dial), a large watch ready for a large wrist and, no doubt, some serious wrist presence as well. The trio of new colours is sure to delight HYT fans, while the calibre 501-CM does its quirky thing of driving liquid through the nanotibes to operate as a time-telling “hand.”
Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith
In 2020, the Arizona-based jeweler Oliver Smith launched a second location in Aspen dedicated to vintage and pre-owned watches, marking a first for the retailer and the popular ski town. A year later, the brand tapped Parmigiani to co-design two models for its 40th anniversary. This year, for the inaugural Watch Week Aspen, it came as no surprise Oliver Smith wanted to do something big. For the occasion, the jeweler teamed up with independent watchmaker Moritz Grossmann, resulting in the Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith. The Central Seconds is Grossmann’s base model, enhanced with a dial, hands, and custom strap by Jean Rousseau. Here, you have a co-signed dial, with the Oliver Smith logo at six o’clock and the original Grossmann logo opposite at twelve o’clock, giving the watch a touch of vintage flair. The model is produced in an extremely limited run of just five numbered pieces.
Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
Moser is no stranger to a mashup. Over the years, the brand has gotten creative with its collaborations from tapping the sneakerhead destination Undefeated to teaming up with other watchmakers like MB&F. Through each partnership, Moser manages to retain its signature approach to watchmaking that embodies minimalist design codes, bold colours, and an overall spirit of not taking itself too seriously. So, it comes as no surprise that for its latest collab, the Maison has chosen to work with another disruptor in the industry who embraces that same playful spirit: Studio Underd0g. The young brand, founded just two years ago in 2021, is also known for its use of vibrant colour and distinct design language established in short order. Although the two brands hail from opposite ends of the high-end watch spectrum, they clearly share the same philosophy when it comes to watchmaking. Today, they are wielding that shared passion. The Passion Fruit edition of the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar builds on the line you know and love with a purple lacquered sunburst dial at the base, echoing the hue of the exterior of the passion fruit, combined with a Maracuja “Grand Feu” enamel dial, echoing the juicy, golden fruit inside.
Breitling Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The Chronomat has served as a showpiece for Breitling‘s technical achievements since it first appeared in 1941 and debuted the brand’s patented rotating slide rule technology. Since then, we’ve seen numerous iterations showcasing Breitling’s innovations, from the first automatic chronograph to the brand’s first in-house calibre. Now once again, Breitling uses this beloved model along with the equally iconic Navitimer and Premier to debut its first-ever perpetual calendar chronograph all in conjunction with the brand’s monumental 140th anniversary. The development of the new B19 calibre goes back to Breitling’s first in-house movement in 2009, the B01. Soon after, the brand grew its catalog of calibres to include other complications beyond its signature chronograph, from a split-seconds version to a GMT. The perpetual calendar is the next evolution of Breitling’s technical achievements, featuring a full calendar and moonphase, automatically correcting for leap years and months. Plus, it offers a remarkable power reserve of approximately 96 hours.
Ming 20.01 Series 3
Ming is a young independent brand founded just ten years ago in 2014. In only a decade, the brand has produced dozens of models in small-batch collections, one of which won the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2019 GPHG. Another milestone for Ming came in 2021 when the brand launched its Special Projects Cave to allow its customers to participate in the creation of experimental watches focused on developing new technologies. The Cave has already spawned several firsts in the watch world such as the sapphire Mosaic with an internal 3D structure created inside sapphire crystal with a femtosecond laser, the Hyceram with a ceramic-fused luminous material, and the LW.01 marking the world’s lightest production mechanical watch at just 8.8 grams. Now, Ming has unleashed its newest technology to emerge from its Special Projects Cave with the 20.01 Series 3, the first watch known to feature a fused borosilicate dial and the only watch driven by the supreme Agenhor Agengraphe movement.
Bulgari Minute Repeaters
In recent years, Bulgari has become synonymous with ultra-slim watches. In 2014, the brand forever changed the landscape of watchmaking with the release of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, marking the thinnest tourbillon movement and the thinnest tourbillon watch at the time. Since then, the brand has gone on to break a total of nine world records for horological slimness with its Octo Finissimo collection. This includes a minute repeater released in 2016, which—you guessed it—was the thinnest chiming watch at the time. Now, Bulgari builds on this foundation with three new minute repeaters. The slimmest of the three is the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, featuring a 40 mm carbon case measuring only 6.85 mm thick. The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon gets a larger build thanks to the added functionality of the tourbillon with a 44 mm rose gold case coming in at 12.6 mm thick. Still, the most spectacular new minute repeater is the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, the most complicated watch Bulgari has ever made.
Blancpain Villeret
It’s no secret green dials have been all the rage in recent years. We’ve seen dozens of makers put their own spin on the verdant hue. Blancpain has long been ahead of the trend. For instance, the Maison gave its Villeret collection the green-dial treatment back in 2020 with a boutique-only edition. And earlier this year, Blancpain introduced its Villeret Quantième Perpétuel in a deep olive green inspired by the Spruce forests of Le Brassus, the Swiss village where the brand is headquartered. Now we get not one, not two, but four new Villeret modelswith gorgeous green dials. The models represent a continuation of the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel that landed a few months ago, paying homage to the brand’s roots through the colours of the natural surroundings. The most classic is the Villeret Extraplate, offering a straightforward time and date configuration. Next up, the Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune provides the addition of a moonphase. The Villeret Quantième Complet builds on this, pairing the poetic moon display with a complete calendar. Still, the most remarkable is the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel. Presented as a world first in 2013, this model demonstrates Blancpain’s ability to create extremely complex mechanical masterpieces by combining a flying tourbillon at twelve o’clock and a flying carrousel at six o’clock, along with a date display at three o’clock thanks to the calibre 2322.
IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 with Stainless Bracelet
IWC, generally speaking, deserves more credit for its bracelets. Most of their watches come on wonderful leather straps, but when IWC does decide to link steel to steel, the results are world-calss in term of tight tolerances, finishing, and—most importantly—tasteful designs that work with the watches. Now you can get the Portofino Chronograph on a lovely IWC stainless steel bracelet, which really transforms this watch into something more sporty than it is on leather alone.
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone
Zenith took its popular Defy collection to new heights in 2021 when it tapped the Valencia-based visual artist Felipe Pantone to collaborate on a design. The resulting rainbow-hued model marked the brand’s first foray into working with a contemporary artist on one of its watches, and it was a massive success. Shortly after, the pair created a second piece for the 2021 Only Watch charity auction, and it set a new record for a Zenith. A year later, the duo teamed up again for the Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone, which drew inspiration from the artist’s “Planned Iridescence” series. After a two-year hiatus, the pair is back together with a new edition of the Defy Skyline that’s got a tourbillon complication and a unique touch that’s distinctly Pantone. This time, the entire dial gets the iridescent treatment thanks to a sapphire disk with a micro-engraved pattern of concentric circles, recalling the moiré visual effect of Pantone’s artwork. Then, the back of the dial features a mirrored metallic finish that, combined with the micro-engraving, produces a striking display of colours.
MB&F M.A.D.1.S.
MB&F has become known for creating some of the most innovative and daring timepieces on the market since its inception in 2005. However, these unique creations have always come in extremely limited quantities and with hefty price tags. The brand’s founder Maximilian Büsser has been keenly aware of this exclusivity since MB&F’s early days with the intention of making his wares more accessible to a wider population without compromising the one-of-a-kind DNA of the brand. In 2021, he brought this vision to life with the launch of the first M.A.D. Editions watch. Now, we get the fifth installment with the M.A.D.1.S. with the “s” nodding to the model’s slimmer and highly wearable profile thanks to the first ever Swiss made movement in the series. To complete the evolution, the slimmer movement and case size are matched with re-worked lugs for a sleeker fit, along with a modified rotor that offers further transparency to the movement. As with all the M.A.D. Editions, the M.A.D.1.S. will be available to own by raffle.
Hublot Big Bang Unico O Ka Mua
Hublot has taken its now famous Big Bang and tricked it out with Polynesian patterns, the Swiss brand says. “The central sun, a key symbol in Polynesian culture, is framed by designs reminiscent of turtles, weaving patterns, waves, and shark teeth,” the press release reads, though there is no indication of what indigenous culture these symbols derive from. The rubber and calf-skin strap are also embossed with patters found on the dial and bezel, and the Unico movement inside offers precision timekeeping and 72 hours of power reserve.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
Brave, bold, and architectural with a nod to flying buttresses of the gothic era, this watch is taking haut horology seriously. This one was created in GP’s Grand Complications Atelier and takes its inpsiration from a famous pocket watch, but we’d say that this watch feels modern, even avant-garde. Calibre GP09400-1273 is the star of the show—in fact, it is the show. The tourbillon is crafted in Grade 5 titanium and rotates once every minute. Wild watch!
Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916
The Ducati 916 super bike of 1994 is an unimpeachable design legend, and one could say the same thing of Gerald Charles watches, which were the braindchildren of none other than Gerald Genta, who penned Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Bulgari Bulgari, and many other legendary wrist watches. So, what at first might seem an unfitting collaboration between the two brands becomes clear, obvious even: exceptional Italian design is being celebrated as the 916 turns 30, and inside both objects are precision mechanics. Here we have a jump-hour complication and a replica of the motorcycles signature gold wheels housed inisde a carbon case on a bright red rubber strap.
