Plate after plate of contemporary Korean cuisine, chef Louis Han of NAE:UM narrates a compelling story, sharing significant and personal moments from his life
For chef and founder Louis Han, the reopening of NAE:UM marks a heartfelt homecoming. He has not only restored and redesigned the restaurant but also curated a new menu that reflects his personal journey, preserving signature dishes while introducing new creations. This culinary story is beautifully told in an illustrated book that narrates his roots in Korea and abroad.
The Michelin-star restaurant itself is inspired by a giwajib, the traditional dwellings of Korea’s noble class. By blending warm Korean aesthetics with refined contemporary design, the hanok, traditional Korean houses, serves as a lasting reminder of Chef Louis’s heritage. This sense of history and tradition extends into his new menu, aptly titled Moments. The name carries a dual significance: one, to share his life’s moments with diners, and two, to encourage guests to pause amidst their busy lives and savour a moment of reflection.
The journey begins with a refreshing drink of Dongchimi, a compressed Amela tomato topped with raw cuttlefish on clarified tomato jelly, finished with a chilled broth fermented from daikon, napa cabbage, carrot, leek, onion, pear, apple, rice glue, fish sauce, and sugar.
Next comes Braised Short Ribs and Potato Jorim encased in lavash bread and topped with pickled bell peppers, a dish that pays homage to Han’s salad days in Abu Dhabi, where he fondly recalls enjoying foot-long shawarma over three consecutive meals. It is a flavourful, comforting creation with hints of soy sauce, apples, pears, onions, and garlic.
Another dish that reflects Han’s personal history may appear simple but is profoundly comforting is Memilmyeon & Mandu. The buckwheat noodles are served with white kimchi and a side of morel mushroom dumplings. This dish symbolises his moment of joy, sharing a meal with his family. It features Korean buckwheat noodles layered with cured tobiko sauce, pickled cucumber, and mountain turnip, paired with a morel mushroom dumpling stuffed with tender duck meat, an ode to home and heritage.
Hansang, meaning “a table full of food” in Hangul, epitomises Han’s concept of comfort food. It presents a dish that captures the essence of home, a satisfying spread of Korean short-grain rice cooked in a cast-iron sot (pot), mixed with assorted vegetables and topped with grilled root vegetables and Deodeok (Korean mountain turnip). All tossed with napa cabbage, onions, nori, spring onions, sesame seeds, and sesame oil, this dish is complemented by an array of banchan (side dishes), highlighting the communal spirit of Korean dining.
A delightful way to end the meal is with Darae Changmyeon, a luscious jujube, truffle, and white chocolate dessert, a sweet creation crafted from Medjool dates boiled with milk and vanilla bean, then blended with cornstarch, sugar, and egg yolk before simmering until thickened. If you think truffle isn’t suited for dessert, Han’s approach will make you reconsider. A generous mound of shaved truffle, paired with truffle espuma and truffle oil, offers a subtle, refined finish that is everything but overpowering.
Han’s reimagined NAE:UM is more than just a restaurant; it’s a tribute to his heritage, a sanctuary where tradition along with contemporary artistry is found on a plate. Every dish tells a story, inviting diners to share in his moments, memories, and culture. True to its name, NAE:UM, which means “scent,” “aroma,” or “fragrance” in Korean, the restaurant offers an experience that embodies all of these qualities, and more.
