How to conquer Mumbai, India’s city of dreams, as told by Hussain Shahzad, the executive chef behind Hunger Inc. Hospitality (The Bombay Canteen, Veronica’s, O Pedro and Papa’s)
5.15am: Mumbai by Dawn tour
Where: Colaba
Whenever you are in Mumbai, you must try the Mumbai by Dawn tour, organised by the folks at No Footprints. Yes, you’d have to wake up at 5.15am, but trust me, it’s totally worth it.
The tour begins at Sassoon Dock in Colaba, South Mumbai, where you can watch the Koli community (the original inhabitants of Mumbai), sort and sell tonnes of fish each morning. The vibrant energy and skill on display are mesmerising. You’ll also visit the bustling newspaper district, seeing papers in seven languages sorted on the streets. It’s fascinating to witness the organised chaos and realise how many people rely on these papers each day.
The tour continues with a look at milkmen and bread distributors in action, followed by a vibrant market where tonnes of fresh produce are sold daily. Other highlights include Mumbai’s textile mills, established due to the American Civil War; the colourful flower market where religion, faith and business intersect; and a cricket ground that’s been home to many famous Indian cricketers.
9.30am: Breakfast at Kyani & Co.
Where: Marine Lines
Kyani & Co., a historic café in Mumbai with over a century of legacy, is my top choice for a Parsi breakfast. Start with their Elaichi (cardamom) or Irani Chai and pair it with a soft bun slathered in butter. Their Kheema Pav, perfectly spiced minced mutton with soft, toasted buns, is the best in town, and even better with a fried egg and sali (shoestring potatoes). Finish with some Parsi Custard and take some buttery Khari Biscuits and Mawa Cake to go.
11.30am: Lalbaug Spice Market
Where: Lalbaug
You must visit the Lalbaug Spice Market for a sensory experience and to take home freshly ground Indian spices. Once a mill neighbourhood, this bustling spot in Mumbai is now a lively spice hub. You’ll know you’re there when you see rows of sacks filled with red chillies, some drying on tarps in the sun. For fresh spices, head to the nearby lane where they grind them for you. Shops roast spices to order and grind them into masalas with large metal grinders. You can also buy ready-made mixes. There’s nothing more authentic than leaving this magical place with a bag of freshly ground spices.
1pm: Lunch at Chaitanya
Where: Dadar West
In Mumbai, Malvani cuisine isn’t just about food—it’s a connection to the region’s vibrant culture, and Chaitanya is where you’ll find authentic Malvani delights. The menu boasts local seafood and meat Thalis, offering a variety of options like pomfret, surmai, chicken, or mutton. Each Thali includes six to eight preparations, along with rice, roti, and sol kadi—a feast you won’t want to miss, especially if you love seafood. Pro tip: Opt for the fresh catch of the day for the best experience.
But it’s not just thalis stealing the spotlight. Don’t skip their Stuffed Pomfret, Sea Crab Fry, or any local fish coated in freshly ground spices. And if you’re not into seafood, try their Chicken Sagoti (cooked in Malwani Masala), Mutton Sukka, or Olya Kajuchi Usal, with tender cashews cooked in roasted coconut masala.
For dessert, order their Modak, a sweet dumpling filled with jaggery, coconut, and cardamom. It’s the perfect ending to your Malvani culinary adventure at Chaitanya.
3pm: Bombay Sweet Shop
Where: Byculla
You must visit the Bombay Sweet Shop in Byculla for a delightfully sweet experience. Watch mithai (Indian sweets) get made and purchase some treats as souvenirs. You can even request a little tour of the space and enjoy a mithai tasting to better understand Indian sweets and their unique forms and flavours. Don’t miss getting their Choco Butterscotch Barks, a dark chocolate and butterscotch almond brittle and sea salt, or the Bombay Bhel Chikki, a crunchy bar filled with nuts, savoury Indian snacks, and jaggery. Also, try the Chilli Cheese Bhujia. These treats blend sweet, savoury-spicy and innovative flavours packaged beautifully, perfect for gifting.
5pm: Evening snacks at Ashok Vada Pav
Where: Prabhadevi, Dadar West
When you’re in Mumbai, you’ve got to try the Vada Pav, and Ashok Vada Pav in Dadar is the best spot for it. What makes it stand out is not just the flavourful potato patty, perfectly spiced with ginger-garlic, coriander-cumin powder, green chilies, and salt, coated in thick besan (chickpea flour) paste before frying. It’s the chutneys that make it irresistible, a blend of green and red chutneys that balance sweet and spicy flavours. Served with crispy fried green chillies and dry red chutney powder, Ashok Vada Pav gives you the true essence of Mumbai’s street-food in every bite.
6.30pm: A stroll around Ranwar Village
Where: Bandra West
Hop into a classic black and yellow cab from Dadar and head off to explore Bandra, known as the queen of Mumbai’s suburbs. Head straight to Ranwar Village, where you’ll be captivated by colourful street art adorning colonial-era bungalows. Vibrant murals and intricate graffiti bring the streets to life, telling stories of local culture and creativity. Quaint bungalows and houses nestled among the artwork offer the perfect spot to pause and soak in the bohemian ambiance. Don’t forget your camera—Ranwar Village is a must-see destination for art enthusiasts and culture seekers alike.
8pm: Dinner at Papa’s
Where: Bandra West
After an enriching walk around Ranwar Village, end your stroll at Papa’s, located above Veronica’s – a neighbourhood sandwich shop on Veronica Street in Ranwar Village. Papa’s is a 12-seater chef’s counter, with the inviting ambience of a 1980s-style Mumbai home, where you’ll enjoy a fine-dining experience that’s playfully Indian. Imagine an intimate, yet lively dinner party that embodies a sense of “fine, without the fuss”.
Our tasting menu is Indian at heart and full of surprises. Expect dishes like Bebinca made with celeriac, black truffle paste and dates, or the refreshing Rasam with trout fish, watermelon clear rasam, lime leaf oil, and roe. Don’t miss the Kashmir-inspired, British-style Wellington with lamb, morel mushrooms, and korma sauce. For cocktails, try the Sea Biscuit, a gin drink made with clam-infused gin, basil, and fennel, or the Papa’s Hut, a vodka-based cocktail with marinara sauce. It’s like drinking a pizza instead of eating one.
11.30pm: Nightcap at Toto’s
Where: Bandra West
After dinner at Papa’s, head to Toto’s GarageToto’s Garage in Bandra for late-night drinks. Known as one of Mumbai’s best bars, Toto’s offers an exciting vibe, energetic tunes and great drinks. This garage-themed bar features vintage car parts and an old Ambassador car turned DJ booth. Classic and alternative rock tunes keep everyone grooving. Though the wait can be long, it’s worth it. Try their famous beer towers or get a rather potent Long Island Iced Tea. Toto’s is the ultimate Mumbai getaway for unwinding after a long day. It’s a must-visit spot in Bandra, perfect for ending your night with great drinks and vibes.
Hussain Shahzad was previously a chef at New York’s Eleven Madison Park and a mentee of the late chef Floyd Cardoz, known for introducing the USA to modern Indian fine dining. Shahzad currently leads Hunger Inc. Hospitality Group as the executive chef and a champion of India’s culinary diversity
