This Burgundy varietal thrives in this region and these bottles show it
A native of Burgundy, Chardonnay thrives in Sonoma County, whose reputation as a US wine region is second only to its nearby neighbour, Napa Valley. An American Viticultural Area in its own right, Sonoma is home to 19 sub-AVAs, 62,000 acres of grapes, 1,800 grape growers, and more than 425 wineries ranging from boutique family-run operations to gigantic corporate operations. Situated to the west of Napa Valley and just a bit larger than Rhode Island, Sonoma’s position alongside the Pacific Ocean provides cooling conditions favourable for the cultivation of Chardonnay.
While many interpretations of Chardonnay from Sonoma are the creamy, barrel-aged expressions that wine lovers enjoy and have come to expect, many producers have toned things down a bit and are using a much lighter touch of oak. There seems to be a quite a bit of Sonoma Chardonnay that is labeled as “unfined and unfiltered,” two processes that help to remove small particles from wine. Often used in large-production wines, these practices may also remove some delicate aromas or flavours and are less prevalent in small-batch, artisan wines.
Ranging from full bodied and oaky to lean and racy, Sonoma Chardonnay pairs well with a wide variety of foods, from roasted chicken or grilled pork chops to creamy or seafood-based pastas and risottos to chilled raw bar platters. Here are seven Sonoma Chardonnays to drink now.
DuMol 2021 Heintz Vineyard Isobel Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma California
Winemaker Andy Smith and associate winemaker Jenna Davis have produced one of their best Chardonnays in recent memory. Grapes are sourced from 39-year-old vines in the Heintz Vineyard then fermented and aged for 11 months in 30 percent new French oak cigare barrels and allowed to settle for an additional five months in tank before bottling. The complex bouquet has aromas of crystallised ginger, dried mint, and lemon-lime zest with voluptuous mouthfeel and flavours of Granny Smith apple, lemon grass, crushed river rocks, and dried thyme.
Flowers Vineyards and Winery 2021 Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Coast California
Grapes for this delicious wine are sourced entirely from the organically farmed Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard located on a steep coastal expanse near the Pacific Ocean. Harvest lasted for 10 days in September and fermentation took place in 500-litre puncheons using only native yeast. The wine was then aged in 25 per cent new French oak and allowed to go through malolactic fermentation giving it a silky, creamy texture. Aromas of wet river rocks, dried thyme, and lemon blossom pave the way for flavours of lemon curd, tangerine pith, and Moroccan preserved lemon.
Knights Bridge 2020 West Block Chardonnay Knights Valley Sonoma California
The 2020 growing season at Knights Bridge started with a warmer January and February which kicked off the cycle a bit earlier than usual. Summer was somewhat mild until a hotter-than-normal August accelerated ripening and allowed for an earlier harvest. Brilliant straw coloured in the glass, this elegant Chard has aromas of lemon grass, acacia honey, freshly cut hay, and white citrus blossoms followed by flavours of Meyer lemon, crystallised ginger, and dried Mediterranean herbs.
Maritana Vineyards 2018 Dutton Ranch Hansen Hill Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma County California
After 29 years at Patz and Hall, Donald Patz is now focusing exclusively on Russian River Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for his Maritana Vineyards project that he started in 2017. Don wants his Chardonnays “to demonstrate freshness and finesse as well as concentration and depth,” and we think they hit all four points. Aromas of freshly squeezed lemon juice, crushed rock, and white citrus blossoms lead to a soft, silky mouthfeel and concentrated flavours of lemon tart, dried sage, and preserved lemon. The 2018 is drinking perfectly right now but can lay down for a few years as well.
Williams Selyem 2020 Drake Estate Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma County California
Friends Ed Selyem and Burt Williams have certainly come a long way since they made their first wine in 1979 with Zinfandel grapes sourced from the Martinelli Family’s legendary Jackass Hill vineyard. They enjoyed some early success, but it wasn’t until 1984 that they released their first wine using their own names on the label. Their 2020 Drake Estate Vineyard Chardonnay is made from grapes grown in the Russian River Valley and has aromas of lemon curd, white citrus flowers, and dried Mediterranean herbs. It is elegant and full bodied on the palate with flavours of lemongrass, preserved lemon, and a touch of finely ground white pepper in the finish.
Morlet 2020 Ma Princesse Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma County California
French-born Luc Morlet and his American wife Jodie make wines in Sonoma and Napa that maintain a distinct “old-world” quality about them. His Chardonnay has often been compared to wine produced from Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy and we couldn’t agree more. His 2020 Ma Princesse is brilliant straw coloured in the glass with aromas of Bartlett pear, chalk, and honeysuckle blossom that open to a sturdy backbone of minerality and flavours of green apple, mandarin pith, and crushed river rocks on the palate. If you’re able to demonstrate a little self-control, lay a few bottles down and enjoy through 2030.
Paul Hobbs 2021 Edward James Chardonnay Russian River Sonoma County California
Winemaker Paul Hobbs was brought up on his family farm and developed a deep respect for agriculture. He founded his own winery in 1991 after working with some of the best winemakers in the world and today he acts as a consultant to wineries as well as making his eponymous wines from various vineyard plots. His 2021 Edward James Chardonnay has aromas of Fuji apple, lemon zest, freesia blossoms, and Anjou pear followed by a generous and creamy palate with flavours of lemon meringue pie, dried herbs, and a bright splash of acidity in the finish.
This story was first published on Robb Report USA
