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Berluti Editions pays tribute to the brand’s heritage with a new Rapiécé-Reprisé collection

By Amos Chin 25 August, 2024

Berluti Editions pays homage to several centuries of masculine elegance while directly referencing the Maison’s archives with a Rapiécé-Reprisé collection launching this September

A man’s wardrobe tells the story of time through the way garments mould to his unique shape, with well-worn pieces and subtle imperfections becoming cherished details. During the Early Modern period, aristocrats proudly displayed repairs on their clothing, a tradition that later became a mark of distinction among fashionable dandies in the 1800s.

In 2005, Italian designer and the great-granddaughter of Berluti’s founder, Olga Berluti, revived this tradition with her Rapiécé-Reprisé shoes, celebrating the beauty of well-worn, repaired items. She describes these shoes as “very comfortable models, marked by the passage of time, paying homage to those clothes we’ve had all our lives that we can’t bring ourselves to throw away.” Andy Warhol, too, embraced this concept, helping to popularise Rapiécé-Reprisé by asking Olga to mend one of his loafers with a visible patch. “I’d like the right foot of my loafer patched. It has to show!” he said. “It must be Andy Warhol!”

Today, Berluti Editions, an exclusive line by the brand, continues this narrative of masculine elegance, taking cues from the Maison’s archives at the same time. Building on what the designer set in motion decades ago, this collection advances that legacy, grounding it firmly in contemporary style and appealing to men who wear – or aspire to wear – Berluti footwear by capturing the beauty of time passing and preserving it in something tangible.

The most individualised of all in this masculine wardrobe are surely the Équilibre slippers. Rapiécé- Reprisé reissues its trio, introducing an asymmetry in these shoes: two different versions of the shoe for the right foot and one for the left. Photo by Berluti

This Rapiécé-Reprisé series reimagines five iconic Berluti models, each narrating a distinct story through the shoes and garments that define a man’s wardrobe. The collection, featuring Équilibre slippers, oxfords, loafers, derbies, monk straps, and ankle boots, offers versions both with and without patchwork. This versatility invites effortless mixing and matching, allowing each piece to be styled uniquely.

While these shoes are crafted to evoke the impression of having been worn for ages, they remain remarkably lightweight, thanks to the depth and suppleness of Berluti’s signature Venezia leather. Adding to the allure, each model in the capsule also features an elegant Blake construction, which conceals the stitching and offers unmatched flexibility.

To honour the shoemaker’s artistry, proper care is essential. Rapiécé-Reprisé addresses this with two specially designed shoe trees: one for low-top shoes and another, slightly higher, for ankle boots. Both are tinted burgundy to match the shoes’ linings and finished with a varnish that enhances the natural veining of the wood.

There’s more than shoes to this collection. It also comprises four different models of leather accessories – E Mio, Un Jour, Toujours and Nino – as well as wallets and a belt. Photo by Berluti

Rounding out the collection are four distinct models of leather accessories—E Mio, Un Jour, Toujours, and Nino—along with wallets and a belt, all bearing names that subtly reference the passage of time. Designed and crafted with the same meticulous care as the footwear in this capsule, these accessories boast the same rich patinas. Visual continuity is maintained through the emblematic hand-stitched patching, which adds a playful twist to these wardrobe staples.

All the pieces in the capsule are available in five patinas: Acid Green, a blend of soft yellow and deep green; Luna Piena, combining dark blues with velvety black; Ice Gold, with the warm, unique gleam of noble gold; Saint Émilion, a rich burgundy akin to the exceptional wines of France’s Bordeaux region; and Vigogna, where warm browns are enriched with cool magenta and violet. Each model is hot-stamped with the signature “Berluti Rapiécé-Reprisé depuis 2005,” honouring Berluti’s history and its guiding force, Olga Berluti.

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