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Bvlgari evokes ancient Rome with the Calla collection

By Amos Chin 7 October, 2024

Steeped in history and culture, Bvlgari’s new Calla handbags is designed by its new creative director of leather goods and accessories, Mary Kantranztou

From soft pillowy silhouettes to kaleidoscopic glitter, the intricate mosaics of Rome’s Terme di Caracalla, specifically the iconic fan-shaped polychrome design, are interpreted in ways that are at turns playful and glamorous by Mary Katrantzou for her inaugural collection with the maison.

“That was the foundation for my first collection, a statement of intent,” notes Bvlgari’s newly minted creative director for leather goods and accessories. “The motif, a sensuously curving fan, has a compelling femininity and universality, connecting with other cultures, other meanings. It links with the gingko leaf and with the calla lily. The Calla has infinite interpretations – but all roads lead to…Bvlgari.”

Mary Katrantzou marks her debut as Bvlgari’s creative director of leather goods and accessories with a sublime statement of intent. Photo by Bvlgari

The motif shines through in intricate matelassé and pavé crystal treatments on the iconic Serpenti Forever silhouettes, beginning with the new Serpenti Sugarloaf—a padded nappa shoulder bag named after the rare high-domed version of Bvlgari’s signature cabochon cut.

The intricate lines of the matelassé are precision engineered and crafted by specialist Bvlgari artisans in its historic leather goods atelier in Florence. Photo by Bvlgari

The Serpentine Duo handbag, a tote with forged metal handle featuring a double Serpenti head on each side, and a trapeze shape that directly recalls the faceted cut of precious gems, is equally stunning. Meanwhile, the brilliance continues with the Calla evening clutch, where the pattern is rendered as an openworked gold case that sheathes the supple leather underneath.

For those seeking versatility, the motif is also available as a singular emblem, defining Calla in its most distilled form.

The Marquise, a new daytime design inspired by gemstone cuts, explores the Calla motif in its silhouette and details. Crafted in fine nappa leather, its curves reflect the fluidity of Calla and are available in both tonal and contrasting shades. Meanwhile, the Ginkgo clutch strips the motif to its foundation, suspended from a leather bracelet and adorned with gold and white gold diamonds.

Inspired by the facets of gems, the surface is skilfully worked with the curves of the ‘Calla’ motifs in fine nappa leather, proposed in tonal hues or vibrant contrasts. Photo by Bvlgari

Throughout the collection, Bvlgari’s signature essence shines through, elevated by Katrantzou’s infusion of modernity—a seamless fusion of contemporary perspectives, historical inspirations and the luxury house’s masterful craftsmanship. “These creations embody Bvlgari’s distinctive and unmistakable identity,” the brand affirms.

Bvlgari