One of the most talked-about shows this season, the Hermès Fall Winter 2026 menswear collection marked artistic menswear director Véronique Nichanian’s final hurrah
Hermès Fall Winter 2026 men’s show, held at the historic Palais Brongniart during Paris Fashion Week, was as much a tribute to enduring craft as it was a runway presentation. But this season carried extra significance: it marked the final menswear collection by Véronique Nichanian, who after 37 years at the helm, has stepped down from shaping the maison’s male wardrobe—an era in luxury menswear few designers have matched in longevity or influence.
True to Hermès’ ethos, the collection was defined by understatement rather than ostentation. Nichanian revisited the house’s signature language of refined tailoring, sumptuous leathers, and impeccable layering—silhouettes that feel both immediate and timeless. Wool and cashmere coats were cut with precision, leather trousers boasted tactile richness, and double‑breasted pinstripe pieces riffed on tailoring classics without resorting to flamboyance.
The palette leaned on muted, earthy tones—taupe, midnight blue, bark, and charcoal—with carefully placed accents like flashes of orange or yellow punctuating the quieter hues. Across the collection, textiles—from lambskin and wool shearling to deerskin—were elevated by Hermès’ artistry, turning even utilitarian staples into objects of quiet luxury.
Perhaps the most poignant element was Nichanian’s thoughtful integration of archival pieces alongside new work. Vintage looks—a leather suit from 2003 here, a calfskin jumpsuit from the early 1990s there—were woven into the show’s narrative, underscoring her belief that great clothes are companions over years, not just seasons. Hermès even projected old runway bows on the screens as she took her final walk, a subtle yet moving celebration of her sustained influence.
This dialogue with history never felt like nostalgia for its own sake; rather, it was a testament to Hermès’ long-view approach—craftsmanship that honors its past while confidently looking forward.
Our favourite looks
What distinguished this season wasn’t flash but feeling. Garments were conceived as vêtements‑objets—not statements to be consumed and discarded but pieces to be worn, cherished, and reworked over time. Reversible cashmere‑wool coats, modular tailoring with detachable fronts, and fluid layering underscored a commitment to versatility, elevating luxury into practicality. Leather—Hermès’ historical backbone—was especially expressive: supple parkas, shearling-lined aviators, and narrow trousers spoke as much to texture and comfort as prestige. Even knitwear, from silk turtlenecks to cashmere blends, hinted at a tactile sensuality that invites wear rather than mere display.
The pièce de résistance, in our view, is the bags—particularly the Plume on Radio. It fuses the retro charm of a boom box with Hermès’ archival designs from the 1960s, reimagined in a spectrum of colours and sizes. The “radio settings” are more than decorative: when clicked, they reveal a hidden compartment, housing a cardholder cleverly designed in the shape of a cassette tape.
This collection was a masterclass in quiet confidence, material storytelling, ingenuity, and timeless design—transforming everyday dressing into an art form. It marked the fitting culmination of Nichanian’s extraordinary tenure while signalling a seamless transition to a new era. Grace Wales Bonner, set to succeed her, will bring her vision to the maison, poised to reinterpret Hermès’ storied wardrobe for a new generation.
