Our favourite picks from day three of Watches & Wonders 2026
From artistic expressions that charm both eye and soul to rugged tool watches that are ready to take on anything, here are six watches that stopped us in our tracks in Geneva.
Bvlgari
Serpenti Aeterna
If last year’s Serpenti Aeterna was a lesson about restraint, this year’s creation is pure chromatic indulgence with a high jewellery serpent that sings with colour and light. Set with 122 gemstones, from rubellite and amethyst to Paraíba tourmaline, tsavorite, and peridot, each stone is carefully selected and precision-cut into round, brilliant, princess, pear and oval shapes. Together, they are arranged into a single, fluid composition that reads as a seamless work of art.
Forged in rose gold and fully gem-set, this Serpenti is the result of meticulous craftsmanship: 225 hours of development, including 185 hours dedicated to stone selection and preparation, and more than 60 hours for setting. White diamonds define the snake’s silhouette, framing the coloured stones that heightens the energy of the rainbow-like body beneath.
On the wrist, the fully pavé dial is crowned by a sharply stylised reptilian head that gives the piece its graphic look. Meanwhile, the openworked hexagonal scales within the bracelet catch and reflect the light, creating shifting layers of transparency with every movement. This Serpenti Aeterna becomes a living, writhing expression of vitality and transformation, at once joyful, intense and precious.
Grand Seiko
Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive SBGZ011
Behind every Grand Seiko watch lies a story rooted in Japan, drawing inspiration from nature and the changing seasons. Icons such as the Snowflake evoke fresh snow in Nagano, while the White Birch represents the forests surrounding the Shizukuishi studio in Iwate.
This year, the brand turns to the Tateshina Waterfall, translating the motion of cascading water into a work of high watchmaking art. Tateshina represents a tranquil, forested retreat in Nagano. Here, that peaceful atmosphere is captured through intricate hand engraving to bring the movement of water to life.
The dial highlights finely engraved lines flowing in multiple directions before converging in a water-like pattern. Crafted with 14k white gold hands and diamond-cut markers, it balances texture with brilliance, while the signature Spring Drive seconds hand glides across the surface, echoing the flow of time.
On the platinum 44GS case, engraved patterns ripple across its sharply defined surfaces. Combined with Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishes, the case captures shifting light and shadow, like water in motion. At its core is the ultra-slim manual-winding Spring Drive Caliber 9R02, measuring just 4.0mm thick and offers an 84-hour power reserve.
Tudor
Monarch
Right in front of me were at least eight new watches, and which one did I gravitate towards? The new Tudor Monarch. First introduced in 1991, it returns not with a simple facelift, but as an entirely new watch.
It stands out for its distinctive Error-Proof-style dial, which combines two numeral systems: Roman numerals from 10 to 2 and Arabic numerals from 4 to 8. The dial’s hue and texture are reminiscent of papyrus, the ancient material made from processed plant pith and used across Egypt and the Classical world.
Through the sapphire caseback, the new Manufacture Calibre MT56XX, developed specifically for this model, is revealed. The movement is finished with perlage, Côtes de Genève and a gold-inlaid rotor. It displays central hours and minutes with small seconds at six o’clock, and is equipped with a silicon balance spring and a reinforced balance for greater robustness.
With 150 metres of water resistance, it is built to handle everything from daily wear to recreational water sports, while the 60-hour power reserve means you can take it off on Friday evening and put it back on Monday morning without needing to reset it.
Cartier
Roadster
It is funny how the universe conspires to drop hints sometimes. Just weeks ago, I spotted a relative wearing a Cartier Roadster she had bought in 2002 when it was launched, and was keen to find out why the watch had stayed with her. It was that blend of sportiness and sensuality, she believed, that sealed the deal.
More than two decades later, the watch returns. The characteristic tonneau case and gentle muscularity remain its most defining qualities, but the 2026 iterations—available in steel, yellow gold, and bi-metal—are even more pronounced. Over a hundred watchmakers and artisans worked to refine proportions, sharpen lines, and rethink ergonomics without disturbing the original silhouette. The headlight-shaped date display continues to dominate the design, along with the speedometer-inspired dial’s circular striated pattern and Roman numerals, which are elevated through an appliqué stamping technique that adds genuine relief. The result is a rousing return to form that not only confirms the original’s allure, but help garner a whole new generation of fans.
Hermes
H08 Squelette
Hermès is all about the show and tell this Watches and Wonders 2026, parading its watches’ inner workings with sculptural skeleton timepieces in some instances, and teasing us with glimpses of its movements with other models.
Case in point: the H08 Squelette. Its 39mm satin-brushed titanium case frames the new H1978 S skeletonised titanium movement with a decorative sensibility that is aesthetically intriguing while elevating the watch’s technical qualities. Captivating lines and interlocking gears of the hollowed movement architecture draw the eye without ever appearing cluttered. The H08’s harmonious contrast—its case that is round and square at once—continues to anchor the look as both design signature and structural canvas. A woven-patterned rubber strap completes the piece, offered with blue or grey hour markers.
Panerai
Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733
We’ve been admirers of Panerai’s Brunito case ever since it was first introduced in 2023. Combined with the brand’s tool-watch aesthetic, the rugged, weathered textures—achieved through manually brushing a layer of black PVD that’s been applied across a steel case—exudes a unique sense of machismo. While there are multiple references across collections that sport the Brunito case, Panerai may have just unveiled our favourite thus far.
The Luminor 8 Giorni (ref. PAM01733) sees Panerai’s iconic Luminor silhouette paired with a sleek anthracite grey adorned with circular brushed finishing. It is this interplay of textures between the radial brushing of the dial and the sporadic brushes of the Brunito case that provides plenty of visual intrigue. Despite its 44mm case size, the timepiece wears smaller on the wrist, thanks to the muted tones of both the dial and case. Powered by the hand-wound P.5000 calibre that boasts an impressive 8-day power reserve, the timepiece reinforces Panerai’s tool-watch credentials in an elevated package.
