The debate over who gets to participate is precisely what Jason Gong, founder of the watch community Complecto, found most remarkable about the launch. In a blog entitled What AP x Swatch Reveals About Access, Anxiety, and Watch Culture, he writes that the collab has become “a referendum on what people believe luxury is supposed to protect.” (See below for his fresh takes, too.)

For the record, Gong is a fan. “For millions of people, this watch is going to be the first time they’ve ever seen, handled, or even considered a pocket watch,” he says. “It gives folks an opportunity to learn about this world. Even if only a few dig deeper, that’s a win. The fact that it’s a manual-wind movement, that’s also a win. Most people aren’t thinking about movements. Now you’re introducing them to a manual-wind movement that will require them to interact and experience the watch in a different way. That’s what I love about the collab. It’s forcing people to experience watchmaking.”

As you’ll see below, the collectors we interviewed couldn’t agree more.

William Massena, collector and founder of Massena Lab

“I’m assuming that in 20 or 30 years, someone will say, ‘I remember when this watch came out. It made me love watches.’ If it makes kids dream about watchmaking, like I did when I was 7 years old, it’s all good. I don’t really give a s*** about the value of the watch deteriorating because some guy made a plastic one. All I care about is that kids are talking about watchmaking.

“For me it’s the experience, the queuing, the hype. Besides the flippers, I do hope there will be teenagers trying to buy one.”

Jason Gong, collector and founder of the watch community Complecto

“The watch is beside the point. I was more interested in the reactions I was seeing online, which were fairly predictable. It was reminiscent of what we saw with Omega and Swatch four years ago, but on steroids. All the baggage that the Royal Oak carries—it’s so much more prevalent and visible in pop culture as an object of desire and signalling than the Speedmaster.

“From a marketing perspective, it’s very successful, because it’s the only thing people have been talking about for a week and a half. I had dozens of people calling me. What I also saw, especially in the comments, were the detractors. ‘This is going to cheapen AP’s brand; I’m going to sell my Royal Oak.’ But even more so, people started to take these moral positions, making judgments about people: ‘They want one just so they can pretend they own an AP.’ Or, ‘This is something for the masses, this is not for collectors.’

“When you dig below the surface, it comes down to this classicism and gatekeeping that permeates the industry. It’s something I’ve always felt and experienced. Even 10 to 15 years ago, when AP and the Royal Oak started to become part of the mainstream narrative, when athletes and entertainers started wearing them, it was interesting to see the community reaction. It was so strong when it was a Black athlete or entertainer. If it was a gem-set watch, there was always a negative comment about the perceived customer. It’s very telling about the industry.

“All this judgment is often masked as reverence for the craft and culture. All these attempts by ‘collectors’ or some in the connoisseur sphere to act as if they have some sort of moral high ground, that some people don’t deserve access to these items. Or there’s a qualification: ‘They’re not worthy, they’re not knowledgeable.’ It’s coded language. What are people really up in arms about? It has nothing to do with the collab existing. It’s the people that feel threatened that the masses could acquire an object that attributes value to their station in the world.”

Gee Li, collector, New York City

“The way AP did this was pretty smart. The way they combined really bright colors with the material into a pocket watch carves a pretty clear difference with the luxury Royal Oak. But it still keeps the design language for a person who’s experiencing the brand for the very first time.

“It’s been interesting to see a pretty big division across the different watch groups I’m a part of. My own personal opinion is that this is a fun and affordable way for a large portion of new watch collectors to engage with a brand that was originally out of reach. I’ve had coworkers randomly ask me about this watch. In fact, my wife’s coworkers have asked her to ask me about this watch since they know I’m a watch collector.”

Henry Flores, founder of Classic Watch Club, New York City

“I think it’s a fun piece for those looking for the opportunity to own something by AP at a fraction of the cost. I don’t think it will negatively affect AP as the two client bases are totally different. I own two APs and would still buy another if given the opportunity.”

Brian Gartside, collector, New York City

“The thing I really like about the AP x Swatch collab is that it takes the design language of Gerald Genta, something that so far has only existed at a price point that’s far beyond the reach of the average person, and makes it available to a truly mass audience.

“The decision to make them pocket watches is a really great way to jump on the whole bag-charm trend and release something that feels authentic to AP without meaningfully eroding their brand equity in the Royal Oak line. But by far what I’ve been most interested in has been the overwhelming reaction to the collab, from both outside and inside our niche hobby collector space.

“At this point, we’ve all seen the videos on Instagram, reminiscent of those early 2000s Black Fridays, and I’ve been blown away by how far outside our hobby the hype for these watches went (made all the more incredible by them being pocket watches). That people were lining up five or six days before the release really shows the amount of cultural cache that a brand like AP has, and also how many people out there are clearly eager to speculate on watches. Within the hobby, what has really fascinated me is the arms race on social media between all the various strap companies, all desperately racing to be first to market with conversion kits to turn these AP Swatches into wearable wristwatches. And honestly, a lot of them look absolutely fantastic. To the point where I will probably actually get one now (once the stampeding stops, anyway).”

Quaid Walker, CEO, Bezel

“It’s just an amazing moment for watches. The fact that the mainstream news is talking about watch collabs right now, that’s awesome. That just means that more people are entering the hobby. More people are going to be obsessed here. More people are hearing about it.

“When we actually saw the real renderings, and saw they went with a pocket watch, and learned that all of AP’s profits are going to the pursuit of watch skills and watchmaking scholarships and things like that—I think AP played this really elegantly.

“The fact that getting a piece of that is drawing people to fight each other in line and malls—I would have thought that for Rolex, but it’s interesting to see that the literacy is really there and people really are aware of these brands and people really lust for them. The only negative is seeing human beings act crazy to get something in the short term and the fact that the majority of the initial buyers are going to be resellers.

“There are so many facets to watch collecting. Some people are in line because it’s a moment of hype and flex they can add to their lives. Or they’re there because they have all of the expensive APs and it’s fun to have the coolest new thing. And some people are there because they’re die-hard Swatch buyers. Everyone is there for a different reason, but they all want to have the watch on their wrist in some capacity. I always celebrate these moments when watches go full pop-culture mainstream. Because all that does is elevate the watch world. There’s no world where less people care about watches because of this. For me, as long as everyone’s okay and no one gets hurt, I think it’s a really big positive. It’s making the market a little bit wider for more folks to play in the space.”

Joyce Solano, collector, New York City

“I’ve been collecting since about 2015 and have had several Royal Oaks in my collection—and I’m pretty proud of having had a long, established connection with AP to get those. The thought of democratizing the brand is exciting. I knew it would never be a wristwatch. I knew it would be a wearable of some sort. But I was taken aback by the insane amount of A.I. imagery that proliferated across the internet.

“I have never had a single person outside my watch groups who’s ever commented or recognised my Royal Oaks and now I expect that to change. As a woman who rides the New York City subway, I may be more thoughtful about how I wear my APs.

“[Regarding the comments that the collab will devalue APs] I think it’s the opposite: There’s a lot of speculative buying. And there will be perceived value. If you can’t even get the US$400 piece of plastic, then the perceived value of something in the five- or six-figure price goes up.

“I would buy one. I have a collection of Swatches already—from Snoopy to Keith Haring—and to me this is a perfect blend of ’80s nostalgia with a brand I feel a personal connection with. Would I sacrifice days of sleep for it? No. Would I spend US$4,000 on it? No. But us watch collectors know that building a relationship with a boutique could take years—we know to be patient.”

This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Swatch