Military-inspired shorts from Bryceland’s, Rubinacci, Kaptain Sunshine and more
Shorts fatigue is real. With months of continued hot weather on the calendar, anyone with an interest in menswear is liable to be dead sick of flat-front, mid-rise shorts cut like abbreviated chinos.
Luckily, there is an answer to this conundrum, and it has a name: the Ghurka short. Named for an elite British army unit recruited from Nepal, Ghurka shorts are marked by a longer length, deep forward pleats, and most notably a “cummerbund” waistband with side adjusters in place of belt loops.
While it may be considered a bold and fashion-forward look today, the reason for its unique closure system is deeply practical: the shorts were originally issued to British soldiers stationed in tropical climates before and during WWII, who were liable to lose weight on the scorching campaign trail rapidly and needed a way to adjust the waistband without a tailor.
Civilians soon noticed that the pleated, higher-rise style was a natural fit with tailoring, and it was adopted by the Riviera set in peacetime. More recently, it’s seen something of a revival among vintage aficionados enticed by its exotic origin story. Today, styles ranging from historic reproductions to merely Ghurka-inspired can be sourced from brands including Bryceland’s, Polo Ralph Lauren, Todd Snyder and more.
Bryceland’s Ghurka Shorts
Bryceland’s Ghurka shorts are Ghurkas with a capital G, right down their high waist, full leg and heavyweight cotton twill fabric. Made in Japan, they also feature double pleats and side adjusters.
Todd Snyder 7″ Ghurka Short
Dialed in at a respectable seven inches, Todd’s Ghurka is marked by a traditional cummerbund waist and double forward pleats. Made from 100 percent cotton, they’re a lock below a striped linen tee or a hopsack blazer.
Anderson & Sheppard Gurkha Straight-Leg Wool-Blend Shorts
Anderson & Sheppard selected a wool-blend fabric with the faintest hint of stretch to construct these Ghurkas, which strike a more modern pose with their slimmer cummerbund waist, slight pleats, and a straight fit. A bit dressier thanks to the choice of fabric, they’ll make an excellent pairing with a linen sport coat. Find it on Mr Porter.
Polo Ralph Lauren 7-Inch Relaxed Fit Twill Officer’s Short
Polo’s “Officer’s Short” is best understood as Ghurka-light, as it forgoes the cummerbund waist in favor of an extended waist tab with streamlined side adjusters. However, its double pleats are sufficient to include it in the category.
Kaptain Sunshine Gurkha Straight-Leg Linen and Silk-Blend Shorts
Kaptain Sunshine, a cult Tokyo brand built on vintage inspiration, features these Ghurkas made from a lightweight blend of linen and silk. Its flowy fabric choice, coupled with a straight leg, gives the shorts an exceptional amount of drape. Find it on Mr Porter.
The Real McCoy’s Ghurka Shorts
Japan-based, vintage-obsessed The Real McCoy’s dug deep into their substantial archives to design their own take on the Ghurka short. Modelled after a British army-issue pair from 1950, it features a wide hem, high-rise, and the distinct cummerbund waistband with overlapping belts.
Rubinacci Manny Straight-Leg Pleated Cotton Shorts
Neapolitan tailoring legend Rubinacci has made Ghurka shorts something of a house specialty. Its Manny model features a straight leg, a medium rise, and a longer length for maximum drape. Find it on Mr Porter.
This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Chandler Bondurant