Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012 lives up to the hype
For many, the Brut is often what defines a Champagne house. The weight of expectation lies squarely on its rounded shoulders; the acid test to determine if one should mark the label as worth revisiting.
But when it comes to the esoteric and the what-ifs, the true marker of elegance lies in the Blanc de Blancs, the purest expression of Chardonnay.
The Réserve Brut is perhaps the definitive Telmont: an exuberant effervescence that is rounded off by a moderate body and minerality with perfectly balanced acidity. It’s a profile that you can never tire of. The Réserve Rosé and the Vinothèque are counterpoints that show off a different side of Telmont. But to get to the heart of Telmont, the Blanc de Blancs is the key to understanding its allure.
Hence, amongst the offerings available through Rémy Cointreau in Singapore, the Blanc de Blancs 2012 is an exceptional representative of the Telmont style. For the benefit of the non-oenophiles, 2012 was a significant year of interest. It was a difficult one for vineyards, marked by extreme climate, though thankfully not of the levels seen in the disaster movie of the same name. The punchline: the movie itself was a disaster.
However, the particularly harsh winter, wet spring and battles with mildew combined with an unexpected blockbuster of a hot summer, resulting in an exceptional harvest marked by its unusual levels of acidity and sweetness.
To no one’s surprise, the critics enjoyed Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012: 89 points from La Revue des Vins de France (2021), a gold medal from Mundus Vini (2021) and fifth place in Tastingbook’s Top 10 Vintage Blanc de Blancs (2021).
Our own positive experience was somewhat similar, and the 2012 vintage stood out from an already impressive lineup of, albeit limited, Telmont offerings that are available locally.
Its distinct buttery character is what strikes you first, followed by a faint sweet fruity nectar and a hint of nuttiness. With Blanc de Blancs, haste is waste – take your time to let the Champagne open up. The richness of its body is accentuated by delicate floral notes as well as peaches and other citrus fruits. The minerality and salinity add a savoury dimension to the Champagne, which simply is, as the young ones like to say, the chef’s kiss.
I cannot forget Telmont CEO Ludovic du Plessis’s passionate effusiveness when he spoke about the ethereal nature of his Champagne, and at times I wonder if I had been moved by the power of his conviction more so than an olfactory assault when I tasted the Brut and the Rosé. But with the Blanc de Blancs swirling around my tongue, I doubted no longer.
Truth be told I’d loathe to even consider a pairing for this and I should be so inclined to enjoy and appreciate it as it is. The prospect of an oyster pairing is faultless, and yet it bores me. Put on rockabilly era Imelda May, leave me alone and leave the bottle behind.
Yours for S$118.
This story first appeared in the January/February 2022 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
