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Date Night: Progressive Asian restaurant ASU opens with a theatrical menu, sans the gimmicky

By Hannah Choo 11 December, 2024

Unveiled in October 2024, ASU is defined by the chef’s personal memories and culinary discoveries, layered with the wisdom of dietary therapy

The story

The next time you plan your day around Labrador Nature Reserve, make sure it includes a meal at ASU, a new fine-dining concept located within the old Tamarind Hill. Unveiled in October 2024 by Ace Tan, a middle-aged chef characterised by his analytical mind, ASU is defined by Tan’s personal memories and culinary discoveries, layered with the wisdom of dietary therapy and global food traditions. Progressive Asian cuisine is what it is, where an ever-changing menu embraces seasonal flavours at their finest and health benefits at their most effective.

Chef Ace Tan. Photo by ASU

The menu

The menu is theatrical without being gimmicky. The pilot episode, ‘Origins’, reassures the palate with familiar flavours, paying homage to Singapore’s rich culinary heritage and the staple dishes of Tan’s childhood. His ability to bring traditional ideas to life in new ways is palpable. The Crystal Dumpling, or ‘shui jing bao‘, as it is known to be, encases lobster, pickled bamboo, golden chives and white fungus—both nourishing to the lungs and stomach—in a translucent skin inspired by Spanish crystal bread, baked to puff like soufflé. Paying tribute to the Fuzhou oyster cake, Tan’s go-to at the Maxwell Food Centre, is the Oyster Bao. But instead of going for the traditional deep-fry, his is a steamed version based on the tangzhong method (which calls for a bit of water roux) and a rich filling of oysters, pork jowl and house-made oyster sauce.

Lu Shui An Chun, a flavourful quail dish that’s inspired by braised duck. Photo by ASU

Other highlights include the Shunde Yu Sheng, where the classic porridge and raw fish duo gives rise to dry-aged kanpachi, chilled noodles and fresh celtuce, drizzled with a sesame galangal dressing; and Lu Shui An Chun, a flavourful quail dish that’s inspired by braised duck, a comfort food that Tan grew up on. Employing the traditional Teochew techniques of braising duck, the iron-rich bird is marinated in aged Chinese tare before being gently poached and served with a tea-infused quail egg, yam rice and medley of pickles.

What else there is to know

The open-kitchen arrangement is best experienced in a date or small group, with its stage-like setting and all. But if intimacy is what you are looking for, there is a private dining room that seats five.

ASU
30 Labrador Villa Road,
Singapore 119189
Tel: +65 8084 0660