Alan Flusser Custom

While ownership of the business passed from its titular founder to long-serving associate Jonathan Sigmon in 2020, the house style developed by Flusser over the course of four decades remains. Today, clients can procure its “updated drape” silhouette—marked by a soft, natural shoulder, a fuller chest and a trim waist—through both custom and made-to-measure. Its custom offering is largely handmade in New York City, while made-to-measure garments are finished in its New York City workshop following two fittings. While it may always be most readily associated with Wall Street antagonist Gordon Gekko—who Flusser famously outfitted—the business also offers full bespoke and made-to-measure for women.

Alan Flusser Custom
3 East 48th Street
Floor 3
New York, NY 10017
Tel:+1 212-888-4500

The Armoury

International retailer The Armoury maintains two New York locations in Tribeca and the Upper East Side. Both shops offer a wide array of bespoke, made-to-measure and made-to-order. Bespoke offerings come from third-party artisans including Liverano & Liverano, Tailor Caid and Pommella Napoli, who regularly visit Armoury locations during trunk shows that allow new clients to place orders. Made-to-measure and made-to-order are both done through the Armoury’s extensive 100 Series of suits and jackets that are designed in-house and manufactured by Japan’s Ring Jacket; made-to-measure tailoring from Neapolitan maker Orazio Luciano is also available.

The Armoury
168 Duane Street
New York, NY 10013

13 East 69th St
New York, NY 10021
Tel: +1 646-613-7613

Cad & The Dandy

Only in its second decade of business, bespoke maker Cad & The Dandy is a Savile Row import whose relative youthfulness is reflected in a deference to client preferences and a rakish “penthouse” showroom perched atop a tailor-filled tower on West 57th street. In comparison to its London brethren, jackets are typified by a softer shoulder and more structured body and can be completed in a much shorter timeframe. A toile fitting typically arrives three weeks after an order is placed, and garments can be finished in five.

Cad & The Dandy
130 W 57th Street,11B
New York, NY 10019
Tel: 1 917-400-4804

F.E. Castleberry

From the moment one steps into Frederick Egan Castleberry’s pink-walled, art-filled atelier on Christopher Street, it’s apparent that the designer has created a world of his own—and his made-to-measure clothing is very much an extension of that Wes Anderson-influenced vision. An F.E. Castleberry jacket is marked by soft, natural shoulders, 3⅝” notched lapels and a trio of widely spaced surgeon’s cuffs; meanwhile, trousers are cut on the relaxed side with 2½” turn-ups and jetted off-seam pockets. “Fashion” is sometimes a dirty word in the world of custom tailoring, but at F.E. Castleberry, you’re very much in the designer’s hands.

F.E Castleberry
14 Christopher Street, No.1
3rd floor
New York, NY 10014

Genuardi Master Tailor

The eponymous Joseph Genuardi left a career in industrial design to study under one of Philadelphia’s last remaining bespoke tailors, eventually clinching the position of head tailor at Martin Greenfield. Genuardi struck out on his own in 2016 and now works out of a converted industrial building in Hoboken, where he and his team create bespoke garments—from suits to overcoats to casual zipped vests—entirely on-site. That soup-to-nuts focus extends to the soft yet structured canvassing Genuardi utilises, which is made in-house.

Genuardi Master Tailor
300 Observer Highway
4th Floor Hoboken
NJ 07030
Tel: +1 201-419-5975

Huntsman

Huntsman stands out as the first Savile Row bespoke tailor to establish a permanent presence across the pond, having opened its small showroom on West 57th street in 2016. Its high-ceilinged, library-like space hosts an in-house cutter to take client measurements and conduct fittings. Once an order is placed, the garments are made in London according to Huntsman’s equestrian-inspired house style marked by strong shoulders, a defined waist, and a single button stance. At Hunstman, two levels of bespoke are offered: the premium “Bespoke 1849”, which offers access to more exclusive cloths and fabrics from the Huntsman archives, and the standard bespoke that can be completed in a shorter timeline.

Huntsman
130 W 57th Street
9th Floor
New York, NY 10019
Tel: +1 646-590-2595

J. Mueser

J. Mueser merges a downtown sensibility with Neapolitan tailoring at its second-floor showroom in the West Village, which is complemented by a ready-to-wear haberdashery across the street. Three varying levels of make are offered. The made-to-order Campania is an unstructured, half-canvassed model made by machine in Naples with a 3/2 roll, patch pockets, and a barchetta chest pocket. Representing the custom side of the business is the Waverly, which is made in Naples from a hand-drafted pattern and marked by a lightly constructed shoulder. The Mayfair, its bespoke offering, is made in New York and more built up through multiple layers of canvas and a stronger shoulder.

J.Mueser
19 Christopher Street
Store B
New York, NY 10014
Tel: +1 347-982-4382

Leonard Logsdail

London-born, Savile Row-trained Leonard Logsdail brings over 50 years of tailoring experience to his midtown atelier, which he opened in 1991. While the business has earned attention for outfitting films like The Wolf of Wall Street and American Gangster, Logsdail practices bespoke at a remarkably intimate and traditional level. He personally takes each client’s measurements, drafts their paper pattern and cuts their fabric himself. Afterward, the garments are made locally by a single jacket maker, trouser maker and buttonhole-finisher—each is touched by just four individuals. In addition to bespoke, Logsdail also maintains a made-to-measure offering that is produced in Canada.

Manolo Costa

Before going solo, Manolo Costa helped launch Paul Stuart’s Phineas Cole line and managed the Purple Label department at the Polo mansion. That inclination for old-world glamour is still expressed at his Upper East Side atelier, which is decorated with art and antiques collected by Costa on his travels—and are available for clients to purchase. His bespoke garments take after American tailoring from the ’20s and ‘30s, with soft, natural shoulders and structured bodies. The clothing is made domestically, and typically completed after eight to 10 weeks with three to four fittings.

Martin Greenfield Clothiers

Brooklyn’s Martin Greenfield Clothiers carries a unique heritage. Its titular founder was orphaned in the Holocaust before emigrating to the United States and finding work as a floor boy at the factory he came to purchase. As a master tailor, Greenfield went on to make suits for US presidents and productions including Boardwalk Empire and The Great Gatsby, and today the factory bearing his name is the last union shop remaining in the New York area. Clients who wish to engage its custom services can visit the factory’s third floor, where they’ll be fitted for a personal pattern that will be cut on the floor directly above them before being used to make their garments on-site.

New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood is headquartered on Jermyn street in London but maintains an Upper East Side store with made-to-measure offered on the second floor. In addition to suits and shirting, New & Lingwood also allows clients to order custom-made dressing gowns in fine fabrics including silk and cashmere that will be made directly under its Jermyn street shop.

Paolo Martorano Bespoke

Paolo Martorano Bespoke was established in 2017 when its founder was just 25 years old, but its quality has attracted some of menswear’s most discerning vets. Martorano practices the bespoke art at its most traditional with custom paper patterns and basted fittings for each garment. Jackets are hand-sewn with hand-padded collars, chests and lapels, and trousers are hand-basted and finished by six hours of manual pressing. The house silhouette embraces classic proportions and can be identified by a natural, lightly padded shoulder with gentle roping at the sleevehead. In addition to traditional tailoring and eveningwear, Martorano also offers bespoke pyjamas, gilets, safari jackets and other less formal fare.

P. Johnson

Aussie import P. Johnson hosts an airy, third-floor showroom in SoHo where clients are measured to create an individual series of patterns. Afterward, these may be used to make a wide array of formal or casual made-to-measure garments, ranging from suits to shirt jackets to polos. The highest level offerings are produced by P. Johnson’s Tuscan factory Sartoria Carrara and made predominantly by hand. The brand also partners with a Shanghai factory that produces its Pronto line made at a lower price point and with a shorter turnaround time, as well as its P. Johnson Femme line of made-to-measure garments for women.

Sartoria Gallo

After studying under the Roman tailor Luigi Gallo, San Francisco native Eric Jensen established a New York outpost of the Gallo family business in March 2021. The result is cross-continental bespoke: paper patterns are made by Jensen in his Carnegie Hill showroom while the first fittings are produced in either New York or Rome. All garments are completed in Rome and bear the hallmarks of the Gallo style: an unpadded shoulder, light horsehair canvas and neat finishing that’s more boardroom-friendly than the comparable Neapolitan make.

Thom Sweeney

Thom Sweeney’s contemporary approach to British tailoring is represented in Manhattan by a SoHo store that stocks its ready-to-wear line, offers made-to-measure and hosts bespoke trunk shows with its London cutters four times a year. The brand’s made-to-measure offering is available in three models: a modern British construction with a lightweight chest canvas, lightly padded shoulders and a gently roped sleevehead; a softly structured jacket with an Italian-style shoulder construction; and a completely unstructured and unlined make—all of which are made in Italy. Its bespoke is tailored in London following a client’s individual paper pattern and cut with an updated English silhouette that leans trimmer with lightweight chest canvassing and subtler shoulder pads.

Tiefenbrun

Just as his nom de Instagram would suggest, Yosel Tiefenbrun—aka @rabbitailor—is an ordained rabbi. But he’s also a classically trained bespoke tailor, having studied at the Savile Row Academy before apprenticing for Maurice Sedwell. His East Williamsburg showroom may be a long way from the Row, but the English influence can be felt in a house style marked by roped shoulders, high armholes and a suppressed waist.

Tiefenbrun
188 Scott Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11237
Tel: +1 718-650-6120

Turnbull & Asser

Those wishing to engage the Royal Warrant-holding shirtmaker’s custom services in Manhattan will find the bespoke department on the third floor of its Midtown flagship. Within, clients will have the opportunity to select from over 1,000 fabrics, 25 options for collars and cuffs and 20 varieties of monogram, and will have 18 body measurements taken to develop their custom paper pattern.