Even with minimal complications, three-hand watches possess more complexity than meets the eye
The maxim of simplicity as the ultimate form of sophistication is often attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. While the renaissance master had embodied the notion in his art and inventions, watch connoisseurs—often enamoured with the intricate complexities that master watchmakers create—may not find it all that satiating.
That said, even the most complexity-hungry collector must admit the allure of a no-frills, three-hand watch. While high-polished tourbillons and intricate perpetual calendars command our immediate attention, there remains a purity and timelessness in the timepieces that captivate with minimal complications.
With that in mind, here are our top picks from this year’s three-hand watches.
Patek Phillipe 5268/461G Aquanaut
There’s something quite remarkable about a watch that marries the elegance of high jewellery with watchmaking artistry. Especially when the watch in question sports the iconic silhouette of Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut. Through the use of precious gems, the maison deftly contrasts the watch’s decidedly sportive white-gold, 38.8mm case with a touch of elegance.
Set on its rounded octagonal bezel, you’ll find an array of baguette-cut sapphires that form a gradient of light to dark blue. Adding to its bejewelled allure is the watch’s dial, bedizened with a mix of baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires in a checkerboard pattern, with sapphire-hour markers and a diamond-set hour ring completing the ensemble.
Powered by Patek Philippe’s calibre 26‑330 which provides a 45-hour-power reserve, the automatic, time-only timepiece may not be the simplest three-hand watch around, but it’s an undeniable gem that’ll captivate even the most discerning of collectors.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding
The latest addition to Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection, the new Fiftysix self-winding (ref. 4600E/000R-H101) represents the epitome of understated elegance. Inspired by the design sensibilities of the 1950s, the timepiece sports large, pink gold Arabic numerals set against a black-toned dial.
The dial, which boasts two finishes—an opaline centre and sunburst chapter ring—adds a touch of sophistication, especially when contrasted against the watch’s 40mm pink gold case.
On the back of the watch you’ll find the maison’s calibre 1326 automatic movement through a sapphire caseback. The movement—which provides a 48-hour power reserve—sports a Côtes de Genève finishing and an openworked pink gold, oscillating weight adorned with a Maltese cross.
Blancpain Villeret Extraplate
If you’re going to design a watch with minimal complications, then you’ll certainly need a captivating dial. Take one look at the Villeret Extraplate, and it’ll be difficult to deny that Blancpain has heeded the call with aplomb. With its rich green dial that’s finished with a sunburst, the timepiece makes a lasting impression—so much so we’re willing to look past its symmetry-breaking date window. The watch’s striking shade of green is readily apparent even from afar, and is beautifully complemented by its red gold roman numerals and double-stepped 40mm, 18k red gold case.
At 8.7mm, the watch is remarkably thin, courtesy of its ultra-thin calibre 1151 automatic movement that provides an impressive 100-hour power reserve.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date
Ladies looking to add a touch of sophistication to their wrist game would do well to look at the newest additions to TAG Heuer’s Carrera Date collection. Each coming in a moderately sized 36mm case, you’ll have three dials to choose from: a striking, snail-brushed copper, a lustrous Mother-of-Pearl with a diamond-set flange, and another Mother-of-Pearl dial that’s further adorned with VS diamond-set indexes.
While the copper dial catches the eye with its sunburst finishing, those looking to add a bit of sparkle to their outfit, or make a statement at a ball, may find one of the two Mother-of-Pearl models more suited to the task. Powered by the maison’s new calibre 7 automatic movement, the watches boast a 56-hour power reserve.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green
Crafted with Lucent Steel, Chopard’s exclusive alloy made from 80% recycled steel, the latest addition to the maison’s L.U.C collection possesses a charming vintage allure. As its name suggests, the XPS Forest Green sports a stunning shade of green that adds contemporary chic to an otherwise retro dial.
Adorned with two concentric rings, the dial has the hallmark of a sector-type dial design, one that had risen to prominence in the early 20th century. Completing the retro look is an elegant small seconds counter near the 6 o’clock.
While the combination of the striking green dial and its unique layout will immediately catch the eye, the watch is best viewed from time-checking level, where the sublime symmetry of the dial makes its presence felt. The timepiece is powered by the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.12-L calibre, a chronometer-certified automatic movement that provides a generous 65-hour power reserve.
