Designers are paring down to the essentials, focusing on functionality and cleaner silhouettes that will stand the test of time
Fashion has always pushed boundaries, inviting designers to defy convention and flirt with the surreal. From Thom Browne’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, with its exaggerated blazer shoulders creating sculptural silhouettes, to Louise Gray’s 2013 transformation of everyday items such as toilet rolls into accessories, fashion has often prioritised visual impact over practicality.
Yet for Spring/Summer 2025, a shift towards subtlety is taking centre stage. Designers are embracing restraint, favouring pared-back pieces where simplicity reigns. While bold, ‘irrational fashion’ endures, recent runways reflect a preference for clean, functional silhouettes that champion wearability without sacrificing elegance or brand integrity.
At Loewe, classic menswear silhouettes make a poised return, with two-piece, single-breasted suits defined by sleek lines and refined tailoring. At the same time, the fashion house explores a relaxed aesthetic with looser two-pieces that balance comfort and style—a fresh, modern and unpretentious take on traditional menswear.
Dior Men, led by Kim Jones, takes this ethos further. Inspired by the elegance of everyday dressing, Jones distills wardrobe essentials down to their purest forms, marrying simplicity with Dior’s storied craftsmanship. His approach redefines tailoring and experiments with fabrics. From refined sweatsuits to sophisticated tracksuits, each piece is reminiscent of 1960s and 1970s silhouettes, yet innovatively constructed.
Also in the maison’s Spring 2025 offerings, a new tailoring line honours the timeless menswear silhouette. One of the highlights is a single-breasted jacket with a soft, subtly cinched line that captures the essence of classic menswear.
Beyond suiting, ready-to-wear also leans into quiet luxury. MM6 Maison Margiela’s collection offers timeless knit jumpers and leather jackets that even the most conservative dressers can appreciate, celebrating craftsmanship over embellishment by focusing on textile quality and craftsmanship. MCM and Bottega Veneta follow suit, presenting seasonless pieces designed to endure.
Bags, too, reflect this understated mood. Gucci’s simple crescent-shaped soft leather bag and Eckhaus Latta’s minimalist silhouette with button accents speak to elegance in simplicity. JW Anderson reinterprets the messenger bag with delicate white openwork, adding a refined touch, while Courrèges’ tote—sleek and unadorned— evokes effortless sophistication, its shape hinting at the grace of a halterneck top.
While the industry will always explore fresh innovations, this embrace of subtlety signals a deeper shift towards timeless, enduring design—a move towards elegance that respects longevity, helping fashion rise above fleeting trends. It’s perfect for those who wish to look sharp yet understated—and for many seasons to come.
This story first appeared in the January 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
