Franck Muller’s new Vanguard Asia Pacific exclusive edition gets a ravishing facelift
Nuance is a wonderful thing. In fine watchmaking, it exists within the smallest details. From the curve of a lug to the geometry of a guilloché pattern, even the most subtle of elements can alter the way a watch feels on the wrist, the way it catches the eye, or the way it speaks of its maker’s intent.
If there is a watchmaker who understands this, it is Franck Muller. Those familiar with the boundary-pushing maison may notice an irony here. Franck Muller’s reputation and success has been built on exuberance, technical bravado, and a design language instantly recognisable from across a room. So, how nuanced can its swashbuckling designs really be?
More than one might imagine. Take Franck Muller’s latest creation, a new 42.5mm Asia-Pacific-exclusive Vanguard. Now more than a decade since the Vanguard—with its lug-less, sportive silhouette—made its debut, this latest addition shows that even the most self-assured designs can hold far more nuance than meets the eye.
This newfound dimension comes through the introduction of a new guilloché pattern Franck Muller calls pavé de losanges (directly translated as ‘paved with diamonds’). Of course, the diamonds referred to here are more geometric than literal in nature—expressed through a delicate guilloché of interlocking diamond shapes that catch and disperse light exquisitely.
This intricate motif is crafted entirely in-house at the maison’s dial manufacture in Les Bois, Jura. Meticulously sculpted through four successive stages of stamping, with each pass defining the sharp facets of the diamond motif, the dial boasts a startling degree of both depth and structure. Adding to this effect is a micro-blasted sunburst finish centre that draws the eye inward, amplifying the interplay between light and shadow.
Beyond its mesmerising allure, the pavé de losanges guilloché accentuates the curvaceous charms of the stainless steel Vanguard case. Observed from wrist-checking level, the diamond motif takes on an almost lattice-like appearance, lending the dial a commanding presence. While this architectural texture sounds like it might dominate the composition, it is softened and exquisitely balanced by the flowing lines and rounded forms of the Vanguard case.
In many ways, it is this geometrical harmony that imbues Franck Muller’s new Vanguard with an added sense of refinement. Completing the visage is a bead-blasted matte bezel, semi-openworked hands, and hand-applied numerals that add a tinge of contrast against its guilloché backdrop. Paired with an integrated, hand-sewn alligator strap lined in rubber for comfort and practicality, the timepiece possesses a stately allure that bridges sport and sophistication.
Available in five colour variations—navy, grey, green, black, and brown—the new Vanguard from Franck Muller is powered by the automatic calibre MVT 2536-SCDT, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
