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Escape Plan: Your guide to visiting Ireland, the greenest and friendliest country we know

By Ted Larson 19 February, 2025

Thinking of visiting the Emerald Isle? Here are a few tips that might come in handy

Editor’s note: See other Escape Plan stories here.

Best time to visit Ireland

For obvious reasons, summer is the best season for visiting the Emerald Isle, but keep it to May, June and September. This is shoulder season, when the crowds have yet to arrive or are already gone, making it easier to navigate popular sites with Ireland’s idea of a “heat wave”. If you’re there in July or August, expect high-season prices and attractions jam-packed not only with tourists, domestic and abroad.

Sights to see

It’s an easy drive around island, apart from the gnarly narrow country road. For a first-time visit, give yourself at least two weeks to really get to know the country, including a quick hop to Northern Ireland.

Slieve League, a mountain on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal. Photo by Michael Shannon/Unsplash

Slieve League, County Donegal

Visit if you’re lucky, or Sliabh Liag, for the highest accessible sea cliffs in Europe, where it rises over 600 metres above the ocean. Take an easy 45-minute walk from the carpark to the viewpoint—be sure to say hi to the sheep along the way—or book a boat tour from Teelin Pier to admire the cliffs from the water.

Skellig Michael was once home to the monks of St. Fionan’s monastery, who lived in stone, beehive-shaped huts. Photo by Elle Leontiev/Unsplash

Skellig Michael, County Kerry

Once home to an early monastic settlement and a scene from Star Wars Episode VII The Force Awakens, Skellig Michael is one of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in all of Ireland. A boat tour will take you right up close to the island, where you will see the fantastic bird life (puffins, if you’re lucky), while a landing tour will allow you to disembark. Book well in advance to avoid disappointment, and bring motion sickness pills to combat the choppy waters.

A sheep dog demonstration at Killary Sheep Farm. Photo by Ted Larson

Killary Sheep Farm, County Galway

Sheep dogs are an integral part of farming culture in Ireland, and they are some of the most hardworking and driven creatures around. Stop by the Killary Sheep Farm for a demo, and be captivated by the extraordinary bond between dog and human as you take in sweeping views of the Killary Fjord.

The Kylemore Abbey. Photo by Kevin Bosc/Unsplash

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

Built in the late 1800s by a wealthy businessman and liberal politician, this castle was inspired by his love for his wife and hope for his beloved Ireland. A remarkable estate that boasted all the innovations of the modern age, the Kylemore Abbey is currently owned and run by the Benedictine community, who have been in residence since 1920. Discover the history and romance of the country’s most intriguing estate, and don’t leave without purchasing some award-winning chocolates handmade by the Benedictine nuns.

The Cliffs of Moher. Photo by John Finkelstein/Unsplash

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

The main event in County Clare is the Cliffs of Moher, a spectacle of vertical, abrupt drops and tremendous views on a clear day. Pack a picnic and wait for the sun to set, as the waves crash against the soft shale and sandstone. You can also take in the views on horseback. The Mountain View Horse Riding Centre caters to all riders, young and old, experienced and inexperienced. Trek through woodlands and up the mountains, and you’d find yourself sitting 366 metres above the Atlantic, with panoramic views of not just the cliffs, but the Aran Islands and Connemara Mountains.

When the day’s done, be sure to stop by McGann’s, a family-run pub that’s been pouring beer and serving hearty meals since 1975. It is also home to some of Ireland’s best traditional musicians, who will be there to perform every night.

It’s always a good time—we mean, craic—at The Porter House in Westport. Photo by Ted Larson

The Porter House, County Mayo

In the charming seaside town of Westport, just one and a half hours from Galway, is The Porter House, a must-visit if you’re into pub culture. The award-winning pub is cosy, inviting, and hugely popular with locals and visitors for its daily music sessions and friendly, knowledgeable staff.

Where to eat

Elbow Lane Brew and Smoke House, Cork: An intimate restaurant that’s a joy to eat at. Sit by the open kitchen to catch the chef in action, and make sure to order the Deep Fried Pork Belly with fish sauce caramel and peanut crunch, and the Wood-Grilled Ribeye.

Spitalfields, Dublin: Set within Dublin’s historic centre is this Michelin-approved pub, where diners get their fill of Roast Bone Marrow, Agnolotti with smoked knockanore cheese, and even Iberico Pork Schnitzel.

Holohan’s Pantry and The Spanish Earl, Belfast: In what feels like home, Holohan’s makes an excellent spot for both a casual meal or special occasion. Go big with the Roast of the Day or try a Pan Boxty, an Irish potato pancake that comes with either seafood or roast chicken and mushroom.

Places to stay

Sheen Falls Lodge, a country house-turned-hotel nestled in the heart of Kenmare Bay. Photo by Sheen Falls Lodge

Sheen Falls Lodge, County Kerry: What was once a country house of the Marquis of Landsdowne, is now one of Ireland’s finest hotels, nestled in the heart of Kenmare Bay. Beautifully equipped with suites and cottages, guests can kick back to a picture-perfect view of the river or pick one of the many on-site activities, from clay-pigeon shooting to falconry. Also, fun fact: Sheen Falls Lodge is run by the good people at Unlisted Collection, a local hospitality group that’s made a name for itself.

Ballynahinch Castle, County Galway: Set in the heart of Connemara is Ballynahinch, a cosy and authentic castle hotel set within 700 acres of woodland, rivers and walks. Overlooking a salmon fishery with the 12 Bens Mountain range as its backdrop, the hotel is the perfect destination for anyone looking to stay in and relax by the open log fire. Those hoping to busy themselves can go fly fishing, hiking or sweat it out in one of the estate’s woodland saunas.

Zanzibar Locke, Dublin: When in Dublin, chances are you will be outside partying away. Stay somewhere that does the job without going over the top, somewhere like Zanzibar Locke, a boutique aparthotel in the heart of the action. Situated next to Ha’Penny Bridge, your best bet would be the roomy duplex suite (85 square metres), which is equipped with everything that you will need: a king-sized bed, sofa, washer, dryer, kitchen and views of the river.

Featured photo by Diogo Palhais/Unsplash