The all-black visage of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium accentuates its iconic silhouette
Stealth luxury has become an increasing obsession of the zeitgeist; the idea being that ostentation and overt grandeur are oxymorons to good taste and timelessness. While we don’t necessarily have a pony in the race (taste, after all, is subjective), there’s no denying that it takes a certain level of restraint and sophistication to elevate a design into the truly timeless category.
In many ways, the IWC Portugieser is a fitting embodiment of this philosophy. The iconic timepiece, first created in the late 1930s when two (surprise, surprise) Portuguese businessmen approached IWC to create a wristwatch that could match the precision of a marine chronometer, has long been a staple of the maison’s lineup.
With its streamlined dial, Arabic numerals, and leaf-shaped hands—elements retained when the maison released the Portugieser Chronograph in 1998—the timepiece is beloved for its legibility and certain air of timeless refinement.
As if doubling down on this phenomenon, IWC has released a new, “stealthy” expression of the Portugieser, albeit in more literal fashion. Rendered in a sleek all-black composition, the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (ref. IW371631) oozes a suave and self-assured machismo.
Its 41 mm case and chronograph pushers, made from IWC’s proprietary Ceratanium material, possess a distinctive metallic finish that is complemented by the watch’s all-black appliqués and hands, as well as its patterned, black rubber strap. Beyond the unique palette achieved, the advanced Ceratanium material combines the structural benefits of titanium with the surface hardness of ceramic, resulting in a timepiece that looks and feels ready to take on anything.
It is, however, important to note that the all-black visage is doing more than simply projecting an understated masculinity. Similar to the art of chiaroscuro, the watch’s darkened hue brings added visual prowess to its other elements, accentuating its iconic silhouette and drawing the eye to its thin bezel, curved lugs, and rounded forms.
“The all-black execution is different from anything we have ever done before,” says Christian Knoop, creative director at IWC Schaffhausen. “It emphasises the chronograph’s mere shape, ensuring that nothing distracts the eye from its distinctive silhouette.”
With its sleek, stylish, and robust composition, the all-black IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium appears tailor made for the classy and self-assured collector who has no interest in trying too hard. Stealth luxury may be in, but this new expression of IWC’s iconic Portugieser Chronograph feels likely to remain timeless regardless.
Powered by the in-house 69355 chronograph calibre that features an automatic double-pawl winding system, the timepiece is limited to 1,500 pieces.
