The Maison’s checkerboard motif now comes in diamonds and gold

Louis Vuitton’s monogram may be its most popular print, but to those in the know, the Damier is an equally collectible motif, seen as the more understated cousin to the monogram and its infamous, colourful collaborations. The Damier (French for “checkerboard”) is older than the monogram, invented by Georges Vuitton as a canvas print in 1888.

It is also the pattern that Pharrell Williams chose as a foundation for his inaugural collection as Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director, outfitting everything from suits and ties to parkas and berets in a pixelated, camo-coloured iteration of the motif (later, he would also put the Damier on a custom tour look for Beyoncé and then as a sort of retail gift wrapping for the exterior of the Maison’s Champs Elysée outpost when his first men’s collection arrived in stores).

So it’s only fitting that the reinvigorated print would eventually make its way to the Maison’s fine jewellery line. Named Le Damier de Louis Vuitton, the collection takes the pattern and translates it into 12 unisex pieces, all done in diamonds, yellow gold and white gold.

To maintain the Damier’s simple, graphic allure, Louis Vuitton artistic director for watches and jewellery Francesca Amfitheatrof created squares etched in gold, each surrounding a round brilliant diamond that is also outfitted in a square setting to create a more linear look on each piece. “It is a diamond collection that is not just about the stones but the pattern that they create,” said Amfitheatrof in the line’s release notes.

The collection is comprised mostly of rings, done in various widths to amplify or subdue the graphic effect of the Damier print and encourage stacking. But there are also hoops, in a huggie style that take the line’s convex shapes to maximum effect, along with tennis bracelets, done in square lines that mimic those of the physical court. To honour the piece’s sporty legacy, Amfitheatrof gave the bracelets a soft, flexible articulation, so that it can be, as she says, “always in motion, and always on your wrist.”

The full collection will be available on 18 October 2024 through the brand’s stores and site.

This story was first published on Robb Report USA