Perfumer Nuria Crulles set up an “olfactory laboratory” to re-examine vanilla, oud, and iris root through a contemporary lens
It’s not just the clothes at Loewe that are getting a new look.
Hot on the heels of the widely lauded debut collection from the brand’s new co-creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the craftsmanship-obsessed Spanish house has also debuted a trio of innovative fragrances. All three bottles in the new Crafted Collection were devised by perfumer Nuria Crulles, signalling a fresh and forward-thinking approach to making scents that she calls an “olfactive laboratory.”
“We conceived the Crafted Collection as a space for experimentation, intuition, and deep research,” she tells Robb Report in an email. “Each scent began with a classic perfumery ingredient reimagined in a modern way.”
The scents—Bittersweet Oud, Roasted Vanilla, and Iris Root—reframe the archetypes of their titular notes while respecting the qualities that make them so beloved. “For me, it was important to preserve the soul of each ingredient. The beauty and sensuality of vanilla, the sophistication of orris, and that mystical, luminous side of oud,” she says. “Those elements are sacred; they’re what make these notes so timeless and emotionally powerful. But at the same time, we wanted to reinterpret them, to bring them into a more
contemporary space.” Bittersweet Oud uses citrus to brighten the polarising ingredient; Roasted Vanilla tempers its typical sweetness with the warmth of oak and cognac; and Iris Root, our favourite of the three, adds a peppery zest to the creamy ingredient so often used in barbershop tonics and other men’s scents.
Crulles likens the process to sculpture, treating each note “almost like an architectural piece.” The hefty glass bottles and their caps, which evoke the vibrant solidity of terrazzo, reflect the approach. And while the first three results of her experimentation are already beginning to find fans, she hints that the laboratory is still open. She’s still working on “unexpected contrasts and textures” and a deeper dive into native Spanish ingredients. The direction is clear: classic materials, recut with artisanal rigor, and a house signature you can’t miss. Take a closer look at each of the trio below.
Loewe Bittersweet Oud
Oud, often treated as “purely dark or heavy,” is turned toward the light. “We worked with the oud itself… to develop nuanced facets: a toasted, woody depth and a delicate, orange-like sweetness,” Crulles says. The result is “contemporary, layered, and elegant… bittersweet, almost citrusy,” and far more approachable than the genre expects.
Loewe Roasted Vanilla
“This was about reimagining an icon in a more complex, textured way,” she explains. To achieve the “toasted” warmth, Crulles works around the oak used to age cognac, which lends a lactonic woodiness and an enveloping glow. It’s still recognisably vanilla—just “warmer, more sensual, and even slightly addictive.”
Loewe Iris Root
In this scent, iris root—frequently called orris—gets a high-definition polish. “We worked with the highest quality orris,” Crulles says, then paired it “with a specific type of pepper that has zesty [notes].” The texture feels alive—polished yet dynamic—helping the orris read more like modern tailoring rather than powdery nostalgia.
This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Loewe
