Stylist Tom Stubbs takes a look back at the hits, a miss or two, and charts a course for the months ahead

My personal histories are stored as vivid timelines of outfits stretching back to first consciousness; well, style consciousness that is. It’a a stylistic Bayeux Tapestry of stances to navigate life and record-passing times. Parties, jobs, relationships, gigs and funerals all have their own picture book look transporting me back to the people, places and emotions of the time. Elements of the styling sometimes feels as significant as the moment. Shallow? Perhaps. Pervasive and permanent, certainly, and in my line of work this timeline is useful. So looking back on 2024 and forward to the year ahead it’s instinctive to recall outfits, garments and brands loved, lost and yet to be worn. Goodbye 2024 and the way we wore. Here’s to feeling alive in 2025.

Trouser epiphany

My 2024 was defined by a sartorial pivot via the sublime trouser cut of Studio Nicholson. A contemporary tailoring-led brand based in Hackney, East London, it wields quiet, style-defining power with global reach. The most significant £407 I’ve ever dropped on clothes was at Studio Nicholson’s SS24 sample sale this spring and it got me a bevy of wicked new pieces. Nothing has been quiet the same since.

Inserting perfectly conceived pleated “Line” pants into my wardrobe updated things in one fell swoop. Sitting high, cut wide, with deftly hewn lines these strides are signature stuff from Creative Director/founder Nick Wakeman, a modernist fabric connoisseur and cutting genius. Between her ‘Darkest Navy’ cotton drills for wide ‘Levy pants’, or ‘Asphalt’ Japanese viscose for their ‘Ellis’ pleated affairs, these trousers are strong volume statements. Hence Studio Nicholson trousers majored in my Northern Soul homage fashion story shot in Dalston’s VFD nightclub back in Spring (along with other essential 2024 style elements).

New Northern Sole

Inspired by the burgeoning new Northern Soul scene certain music loving kids nurture in small venues of London, the shoot was also informed by Northern Soul style values of the past. A simple equation of brilliant, wide trousers swooping in waist-wards vs. skimpy tops which looks so distinct, while also freeing the torso to move and sweat. Plus, of course, ultimately agile footwear. Aside from Studio Nicholson, best on the floor trousers also included Emporio Armani super wide self-belters and Connolly’s denim ‘Sash’ pants. Favourite footwear was fine-soled fancy loafers. Nice and nimble for slip-sliding about in starkly illuminated dancefloors such as Deptford Northern Soul at the Moth Club. The ‘Grand’ penny from Baudoin & Lange takes the loafer admiration of the year award. Honed, sophisticated and good to dance in, mine got their talcum powder christening hot-stepping  at ‘Rumours’ Soul Club in The Waiting Room of Stoke Newington, N16.

Vested interest

2024’s seismic shift from black Arket rib racer vests (that’s tanks for the Yanks) to navy, was subtle but significant. Imagining the singlet outlook for ’25 my gut instincts says expect an outbreak of sky blue for spring, turning pale khaki in high summer.

Holy shet!

Power tool of the season without doubt was a simple round neck Shetland knit—the ultimate folk-chic deformalizer, utterly essential in taking the harder edge off smart tailoring. Simple as that. The folksy, hand-linked neck is the perfect foil to tailored lines. The juxtaposition channels an almost Punk Rock raw texture clash. Autumn saw my Shet-knit collection mature, with YMCs ‘Suedehead’ and Drakes brushed lambswools emerge as firm favs, alongside ultra-authentic (and rather itchy) numbers from Scottish brand Jamieson.

Hello, 2025!

Changing lanes

Meeting Berlin-based Optimistic Runners saw me change lanes for the new year, having previously ran as a Satisfy brand fan. Gone are muted khakis and grey tie-dyes of 2024 and now I limber up in brutal black, metallic trimmed shorts and tops emblazoned with graphic print lettering of the new Berliner collective, set off provocatively with their fur-lined neckerchief.

A packable pith

While the unrelenting Lock Hatters Basque beret wearing of winter ends shortly, in between I shall wait patiently to take up the Christys’ packable safari-esque hat mantle in much warmer climes. To be fair, its a Panama with potent pith helmet sensibilities around the crown, tempered by an additional silk band I’m planning customise it with.

Print matters

Talking of silk adornment, perpetual questing for witty vintage Moschino printed silk square scarves delivered a bountiful gallery this year, and I was content. Until I witnessed the splendor and artistry of Pierre Louis Mascia’s SS25 show that left a craving for scarves from this print maestro that has yet to be appeased. I plan to get involved with Pierre’s patterns even if I have to wear his cushion covers come March.

Swashbuckling combo

Staring down the barrel of another Pitti Uomo in a vintage black leather trench and Saint Laurent “Wyatt” harness boots, I’ve got an instinct a new swashbuckling sartorial subversion is about get triggered. We simply can’t accept a tailoring a la carte menu as it’s presented to us straight, so I’m looking to high-fastening, military great-coat style to provide the dramatic work with slashed open blousy shirts and voluminous pants tucked into heeled boots.  Think of any number of the most theatrical Galliano shows interpreting period military, dial it down up a century and a half and you’re in the right cannon-ball park. This is how to take on the ongoing Cuban-heeled boot epidemic in your stride without getting caught in the pedestrian stampede. New boot tips for 2025 include Manolo Blahnik’s ‘Buxton’ rugged strap and buckle numbers or Santoni’s refined, heeled ankle boots.

Balearic cardigans

Spring’s big story is about to happen, soonish, and it’s a all about knits. I herald the dawn of the new Balearic cardigan. In fact it’s already started. While it might sound like an oxymoron pairing knitwear and the Balearics, it’s to do with attitude. When I say “Balearic,” I’m evoking a strain of nonchalant, slouchy-cool mastered by certain style-merchants who inhabited the late eighties early nineties club scene of Ibiza. The Balearic shuffler, for whom eclectic dress style went hand in hand with the diverse and specific music mix and attitude.

I saw one such chap out, DJ Ross Alan, just before Pitti and he was resplendent in a beautifully stripped fluffy example (just before he played). Witnessing the stunning knitwear from J-Brand from Japan, I felt the story clicking into place.  J-Brand employ expert unique dying processes that creates gorgeous hombre graduated-color knits, and in cardian form they’re breathtaking. Once tuned in more BCs, notably creations from Wunder Kamera, a German knitwear collection, and from the esteemed house of knits Missoni. Now Alfredo’s new ‘Just For Friends’ knitwear collection and Inis Meains ‘Relaxed’ drape jackets join the throng, leading us into a shuffle-slouched sloppy spring.

Rossi trousers

I’m cautions to believe the repeat pleat epiphany of last year can be matched? But if it can, its gonna be via Rossi the Swiss/German trouser specialist have caught my attention also and are now deployed in my musician client David Gray’s world tour style roster as I type. Trouser fans to stayed tuned to Rossi trajectory.

Silk shirting

I’m already an enthusiast of Brit brand L.E.J. London’s cunningly informed, staunchly non-fashion ethos but having seen their silk drill ‘Officers Shirts’ in effect actor Guy Pearce for the Brutalist promotional junkets, and also on two Japanese lads we shot in the last sunrays of autumn, am super keen eye for more chances to work/wear these exquisitely drapey shirts.

While 2024’s flick book of looks and pieces will never be lost in my internal archive, and as I pledge allegiances to the many new stances worn along the way, even now things are changing again.

The tangibly evolving style creature that is the men’s style zeitgeist is singing out new vibrations, like Sirens calling with fresh beguiling ideas and contexts that pull us astray from our pre-designated style courses. It’s this interaction with the times that makes what we wear and when significant (even if only to ourselves).

A moment of personal interpretation in real time given the prevailing atmosphere and through the prism of new offers is why style and fashion still ranks in terms of historical expression and should never be under estimated spiritually.

This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Studio Nicholson