Dubbed Couleur Vivante, the collection co-designed by Raf Simons features the new, eye-catching Prada Cut

When Prada debuted its first line of fine jewellery in 2022, it offered bold shapes made entirely of recycled gold—like a giant triangular pendant, engraved with the brand name in the vein of its famous logo. The Eternal Gold collection was followed by Eternal Gold—A New Facet, which featured the same motifs infused with lab-grown diamonds. This year, Miuccia Prada and co–creative director Raf Simons upped the ante with Couleur Vivante, an array of jewels in vivid colours that let the stones be the stars of the show.

Miuccia Prada is a longtime collector of antique jewellery, but the designs for her eponymous house are distinctly modern. Bright chromatic combinations offer a surprisingly fresh take on traditional precious stones. Take, for example, the drop earrings with striking Windex-blue aquamarines atop a pair of cotton-candy-pink morganites totaling 49.39 carats or lime-green oro-verde peridots weighing 60.34 carats. In both cases, the triangular stones are connected to their larger counterparts by baguette-cut diamonds and minimal 18-karat-white-gold settings. Finding stones of this size, clarity, and vibrancy took 18 months in collaboration with gem hunters who sourced roughs big enough to be cut according to the Italian house’s specific requirements. The patented and proprietary Prada Cut, exhibited in the aquamarines, presents an entirely new architecture.

The design is echoed throughout the collection, emphasised in a group of four rings. A Prada Cut peridot perched atop suiffé amethysts and set in 18-karat white gold, for instance, will surely turn heads from across a room. But the company’s geometric symbol can be found in more subtle forms as well. The smaller suiffé stones on tennis bracelets and necklaces blend a round-cabochon top with a French-cut base faceted into four triangles.