“I anchor myself by trusting the process and remembering why I named my restaurant Willow.” – Nicolas Tam, founder and executive chef of Willow
Following his experience at renowned establishments including Zén and Esora, Nicolas Tam now leads Willow, a Michelin-starred contemporary Asian restaurant that opened in 2022 and earned its first star within a year. He is celebrated for a minimalist approach that showcases top-quality Japanese ingredients, refined through French techniques and enriched with pan-Asian influences.
Despite the accolades, Tam has faced his share of challenges. “I’ve learnt to keep going even when it’s tough. You adapt, learn from adversity, and find strength in the struggle. If you fail, you learn. If you succeed, you earn. There is nothing to lose,” he reflects.
Throughout his career, Tam has drawn strength from a close network of friends whose advice he values deeply. Among them is Su Kim Hock, chef-owner of Au Jardin in Penang, who once told him to always distinguish between an obstacle and an opportunity—that mindset makes the difference. This perspective proved invaluable when he competed in the Bocuse d’Or in 2013 alongside Yew Eng Tong as part of a two-man team. The experience was humbling and eye-opening, revealing to Tam both the vastness of the culinary world and the limitless potential for growth through learning from others.
What is the boldest risk that you have taken in your career?
Opening Willow. There were a lot of unknowns, from timing, expectations, and whether people would understand what I was trying to do. Starting a restaurant is never just about food; it’s about people, trust, and putting everything you have on the line.
How has your understanding of success changed over the years?
When I was younger, I thought success was about accolades, fortune, external validation like recognition from others. Over time, I’ve come to realise that success is not to be enjoyed alone, it is something to be shared with the people. At Willow, watching my team grow has been one of the most rewarding parts of the journey. Personally, my goal has always been to be happy—in work, health, and life. Right now, I am content and grateful.
What keeps you grounded when you are faced with setbacks?
I anchor myself by trusting the process and remembering why I named my restaurant Willow. As Bruce Lee once said, ‘The stiffest tree is most easily cracked, while the willow survives by bending with the wind.’ It is a powerful metaphor that reminds me to stay adaptable, to have the strength to keep moving forward.
What belief did you hold early in your career that you’ve since outgrown?
I used to believe that technical skill alone was enough to succeed. Over time, I’ve come to realise that leadership, communication, and the ability to build a strong team are just as important. Being a great chef isn’t just about cooking, it’s about bringing people together and creating an environment where everyone can thrive.
What legacy do you hope to leave behind?
I hope the chefs whom I’ve mentored go on to be respected for their craft and values. I hope to pass on a culture of honesty, integrity, a strong work ethic and a never-say-die attitude to the younger generation of chefs.
