Creative director Véronique Nichanian showcases her playful side in the Hermes Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s collection
Hermes takes a bold stride into the Fall/Winter 2024 season, embracing paradox as its defining strength. Amidst the duality, versatility remains key in the collection, where its attitude is defined by the playful pop effervescence that reverberates throughout the modern silhouettes.
The construction of the looks is a masterpiece of reinvention, playing with shapes and countershapes, cuts and cutouts, and graphic signatures. The volumes are both sharp and generous, with short pea coats and jackets creating a dynamic contrast against wraparound coats that elegantly lengthen the silhouette. Narrow trousers streamline the leg, while irreverence takes centre stage in garments with multiple lives—reversible, superimposable, and transformable.
The collection reads like a visual poem, with gum overclothes meeting Prince of Wales check suits, double collars and tube scarves providing warmth, and neo-racing jerseys slipping on like hoodies. Precise decentrings and engineered slippages create an argyle off its rails effect: pockets playfully slip and slide, and maxi-chevrons showcase an anamorphosis of a horse’s coat.
Dense and tender materials such as dipped lambskin, stirrup leather, deerskin flannel, cashmere, alpaca, iridescent wool cloth, and polished calfskin weave a rich tapestry. The muted palette is punctuated with acid strokes and deep shimmers, featuring heather, peat, pumpkin, anise, crocus, khaki.
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As night falls, the evening collection emerges, cloaked in shades of black and brown, matte and shiny, slicing through the luminous winter night. Beneath the casual appearance lies a sophistication that breaks free.
In terms of lines and fabrics, the range is vast and varied. From short pea coats and parkas in calfskin to double-breasted coats in polished calfskin and cardigans in sport calfskin, each piece tells a unique story. Reversible teddy parkas, sleeveless vests in babylamb, and blousons with removable collars in sheepskin add layers of intrigue. Suits in Prince of Wales check wool or iridescent wool broadcloth showcase meticulous tailoring, while oversized shirts in spinnaker or cotton poplin add a casual yet refined touch. Other textiles, cashmere, silk, cotton gabardine, mohair canvas, and satin, define ready-to-wear such as turtleneck pullovers, narrow trousers, suits, and jerseys.
Accessories play a crucial role in accentuating the collection’s narrative. Haut à courroies en selle bags in various calfskins, from Barénia to Swift, and garden party voyage bags in H canvas with panoplie cavalière print stand out. The boucle sellier on the rocks necklaces and bracelets, étrivière reed bracelets, and hermès clou d’h reed bracelets, amongst other accessories, add a touch of elegance to the overall collection. Reversible tube scarves, ankle boots, derbies, ties in Prince of Wales check wool, and double étrivière belts in bridle leather or smooth crocodile complete the ensemble.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2024 is a symphony of contradictions—bold yet refined, casual yet sophisticated, traditional yet avant-garde. The collection weaves a narrative that challenges the norms, inviting individuals to embrace the paradox of strength and versatility in their personal style.
