Roger Dubuis has never been one to play it safe, and the Orbis in Machina shows why
Spend enough time in the watchmaking world and you’ll soon hear an inside joke about Roger Dubuis. Its initials, ‘RD’, as many self-amused watch enthusiasts will tell you, don’t just stand for Roger Dubuis—they are also shorthand for ‘research and development’. While some might chuckle at the witticism, it’s difficult to argue against it. The brand’s founder, Roger Dubuis, along with the esteemed manufacture that bears his name, is renowned for mastering time-honoured horological traditions through a scrupulous examination of the past and a drive to advance the craft’s future.
Roger Dubuis coined and trademarked the term ‘hyper horology’ to encapsulate its philosophy of crafting avant- garde, intricately complex and unapologetically larger-than-life timepieces. At Manufacture Roger Dubuis, well-honed watchmaking knowledge and craft are reimagined and transformed into boldly modern creations that would undoubtedly make their forebears proud. The brand even coined and trademarked the term ‘hyper horology’ to encapsulate its philosophy of crafting avant-garde, intricately complex and unapologetically larger-than-life timepieces.
Don’t, however, be mistaken. While the maison has garnered a reputation for being an envelope-pushing maverick, it is no mere provocateur. Although novelty, complexity and theatricality are among its most apparent characteristics, a reverence for traditional watchmaking remains at the heart of Roger Dubuis.
Central Complexity
No timepiece illustrates this balance better than the Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024, the boutique-exclusive timepiece, which has just arrived in Singapore, is a bona fide head- turner. This is thanks, in no small part, to an exquisite flying tourbillon placed at the centre of its dial. While the aesthetic rewards of such a placement are self-evident, the difficulty of the task means the complication remains a rare sight.
To achieve this feat, a watchmaker must reconfigure an already complex movement into a non-traditional arrangement while ensuring the mechanism’s robustness and efficiency remain intact. It is no surprise that the artisans at Roger Dubuis—experts in creating timepieces with multiple tourbillons—would accomplish this with indubitable flair.
The central flying tourbillon exudes a stately presence on the Orbis in Machina. Doubling as a seconds hand, the complication is framed by a series of multi-layered concentric rings that act as the second and minute scales. The grey, satin-brushed rings surrounding the complication do more than just indicate the time; they add structural and visual depth, with matte surfaces providing contrast to the polished tourbillon cage.
Unlike the fully skeletonised dials often associated with Roger Dubuis, the Orbis in Machina has a softness to it. Its layered concentric discs and partially covered movement create a timepiece full of intrigue without feeling overbearing. Add the small peripheral hour and minute hands, driven by a patent-pending planetary gearing system, and the result is a dial that feels both refined and indulgent.
That balance extends to the relatively large 45mm pink-gold case, which features the maison’s recognisable notched bezel. Paired with its triple-lug bracelet, the highly polished bezel imbues the timepiece with a rugged, masculine appeal that is elegantly softened by the warm hue of the precious metal.
Geneva Heritage
The Orbis in Machina not only reflects Roger Dubuis’ hyper-modern ethos but also pays homage to the highest standards of traditional watchmaking. Roger Dubuis’ watchmakers spend almost 40 per cent more time to hand-finish every single component in order to meet the Geneva Seal certification, the oldest remaining qualification for high-end watchmaking, dating back to 1886.
For perspective, of the millions of Swiss watches produced annually, only 0.008 per cent bear this seal. The immense accolade is immediately evident in the beating heart of the Orbis in Machina. Known as Calibre RD115, this manual-winding movement with a 72-hour power reserve was developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Roger Dubuis.
Complete control over the movement’s technical and aesthetic execution ensures no detail is overlooked. The calibre RD115 is hand-decorated with 19 different finishing techniques, each fastidiously and expertly applied to ensure that the movement looks as stunning as it performs. The bridges, for example, are adorned with hand-applied Côtes de Genève, sporting elegant striped patterns that create a subtle play of light across the rhodium-plated surfaces. Adding to the visual splendour are the chamfered and mirror-polished edges that provide a touch of depth to the overall architecture.
Elsewhere, the baseplate is decorated with perlage, a circular-graining technique that lends the movement a textured, almost pearlescent quality. This finishing contrasts with the linear patterns on the bridges, creating a layered aesthetic that draws the eye deeper into the movement.
It is this reverence for tradition, combined with exceptional craftsmanship, that gives Roger Dubuis its unparalleled depth and nuance. While its hyper horology ethos and audacious designs may steal the spotlight, it is the intricate artistry and unwavering dedication to watchmaking tradition that underpin its creations.
The Orbis in Machina, with its remarkable central tourbillon and exquisite finishing, perfectly embodies this balance—a timepiece that, while appearing to hail from an outer orbit, remains steadfastly grounded in the art of fine watchmaking.
This story first appeared in the February 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
