Had Delphine Jelk not become one of the leading noses at Guerlain, her career would likely have taken a path in the sciences
In 1999, Delphine Jelk unveiled a groundbreaking graduate collection that merged men’s ready-to-wear with an olfactory dimension, pioneering the concept of fashion as a multi-sensory experience. Working in collaboration with Firmenich, she translated the textures of cashmere and linen into evocative fragrances—poetic extensions of her garments. This bold and visionary approach drew the attention of industry leaders, securing her a role as a trend researcher with Firmenich’s teams in Geneva and Paris.
A serendipitous meeting with a perfumer, however, changed the course of her career. The encounter ignited in Jelk a deep curiosity about the raw materials of perfume, leading her to the renowned Grasse Institute of Perfumery. By 2003, she was honing her craft at Drom Fragrances under the guidance of Grasse master perfumer, Philippe Romano.
Her journey then led her to New York, a city alive with inspiration and possibility. Amid the buzz of collaborating with the world’s most iconic fragrance houses, destiny brought her to Guerlain. What began as an exchange of creative minds evolved into a defining moment: the creation of La Petite Robe Noire, a fragrance that would achieve global acclaim. This triumph not only solidified her bond with Guerlain but welcomed her into its storied family, where she worked alongside the legendary master perfumer Thierry Wasser.
Jelk’s exceptional contributions did not go unnoticed. In 2021, her impact on perfumery and culture was officially recognised when Roselyne Bachelot-Narquin, France’s minister of culture, awarded her the esteemed title of Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (The Order of Arts and Letters established by the French Ministry of Culture to recognise significant contributions to the arts, literature, and other creative fields).
If you weren’t a perfumer, what would you be doing with your life?
I’d be a fashion stylist, designer, or maybe a pharmacist. I’ve always been passionate about fashion and design, but also about science and chemistry. That’s why I became a perfumer. This profession combines both creativity and scientific rigour.
Is there a non-perfume smell that brings you joy but might be considered strange?
The smell of my lover, even at the end of the day, brings me great joy. There’s something deeply comforting and intimate about the natural scent of the person you love.
Which countries have inspired you the most?
Morocco and Paris have been major sources of inspiration for me. The vibrant markets, spices, colours, and exotic fragrances of Morocco sparked the creation of Neroli Plein Sud, while Paris’s rich cultural history inspired Patchouli Paris. I’m drawn not just to the beauty of a place, but to its history, culture, and the people I encounter. There are also places I dream of, like the mountain where Lee Ufan spent his summers.
What kind of music, if any, do you listen to while working or relaxing?
I don’t listen to music when I’m working. I need and seek calm. I like silence. It allows me to concentrate fully on smells and create without distraction.
Do you have a ritual or daily habit that keeps you grounded, especially in stressful times?
I have a rose quartz that I like to have in my hand, and I love to smell tangerine when I’m stressed. I also practice the 3-6-5 breathing technique, and drink herbal tea all day long.
What is your favourite meal and does its aroma play a role in why you love it so much?
I love pasta; I can eat it morning, noon, and night. I also love the smell of melted butter mixed with garlic and basil. The aroma of these simple but tasty ingredients evokes memories of comforting meals and culinary pleasure.
Do you ever feel pressure to smell ‘perfect’ because of your profession?
I don’t pressure myself, but I do believe I must smell good—it’s something I’m sensitive to. I’ll never wear a perfume I don’t like and I always test scents on myself.
What’s something about you that people might find surprising?
I’ve watched the same soap opera every morning since I was 11. It’s a comforting routine that helps me relax and start the day with something familiar.
Do you ever dream in smells, and if so, what’s the most vivid one you remember?
No, never. However, when I had COVID, I dreamt I’d lost my sense of smell. It was terrifying.
If you could bottle the scent of a specific moment in your life, what moment would it be?
It would be my children’s first weeks. While breastfeeding, I could smell all the musks. The scent of my babies, combined with the musk, was comforting and beautiful. It’s a time filled with love and tenderness, and that fragrance remains my most cherished olfactory memory.
If you could swap lives with anyone for a day, who would it be and why?
The Dalai Lama embodies great spirituality. I deeply admire his wisdom, serenity, and compassion. Spending a day in his life would offer a profound spiritual perspective and insight into how he maintains inner peace amid the world’s challenges.
This story first appeared in the March 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
