We assembled a varsity squad of some of the best-qualified and most style-conscious people we know to rate what went right—and what didn’t
Paris is no stranger to a catwalk. But this past Friday night, the City of Lights hosted a fashion show of an entirely different sort, and arguably on a larger scale than anything the global style capital has witnessed before: The Opening Ceremony of the 2024 Olympic Games.
While the drizzly weather (and its accompanying ponchos) was a hindrance, it couldn’t keep the floating Parade of Nations down. With 205 countries represented, it was a chance for each to flex their sartorial prowess while boating down the Seine before an estimated audience of nearly 29 million people worldwide.
The event may also prove the apogee of high fashion and elite sport, as LVMH’s much-publicized participation yielded cinematic cut-scenes of Louis Vuitton trophy trunks mid-creation, a boatful of French athletes in Berluti eveningwear and Celine Dion serenading in a Dior Haute Couture embroidered silk dress that took over 1,000 hours to make.
In the aftermath, Robb Report assembled an all-star panel of style minded-judges to deliver their own scores on which national uniforms worked—and which didn’t. Our dais includes:
Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson, a former coxswain on the U.S. rowing team and the designer of El Salvador’s 2021 Summer Olympics uniforms; Larry Curran, a New York-based fashion consultant, strategist and stylist; Clementinafounder Emilie Hawtin, whose women’s tailoring brand just produced an Opening Ceremony-inspired blazer with Tracksmith and Le Tre Sarte; Greg Lellouche, founder and CEO of indie e-commerce boutique No Man Walks Alone ; Dan Quigley, former boxer and shop manager of The Armoury’s Upper East Side location; and globe-trotting style writer Zachary Weiss.
We’ve collated their takes below on everything from Mongolia’s show-stopping gowns to South Sudan’s sleeper-hit black blazers to the Very Ralph (and controversially logo-heavy) entrance of Team USA. Read on to discover which uniforms get gold, which are rewarded with silver, and which should have been disqualified.
Australia
“Australia has a very traditional look, which I like: a dark green blazer with brass buttons and a blazer badge, and light-coloured bottoms (skirts or shorts in this case). A team blazer like this, especially if it has a badge, should, more correctly, have patch pockets. But the look overall is true to Australia’s sporting history, and in keeping with the spirit of the Olympic opening ceremonies, which is nice to see amidst a sea of uniforms purporting to ‘make a statement’ but often saying nothing and reflecting a total lack of understanding of the event’s history and heritage.” – Jack Carlson
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Austria
“Austria’s uniform is a brilliant combination of traditional Austrian trachten(the loden coat, worn with lederhosen) and a traditional team blazer. Very well done.” – Jack Carlson
Bermuda
“Bermuda has usually had very attractive and traditional Olympic uniforms: the concept (navy blazer and Bermuda shorts) is timeless, and authentic both to Bermuda as a nation and to the tradition of the Olympic Parade of Nations. But this year’s version, with its printed scarves for women and matching printed ties and handkerchiefs for men, skews too much into the visual vernacular of commercial airline service staff.” – Jack Carlson
“Bermuda proved one can be predictable and shameless while brilliant and on-trend (pay attention, politicians) by choosing, you guessed it, Bermuda shorts! Worn on the floating flotillas, the shocking pink bottoms were anchored by a blue blazer and finished with more pink in the form of a patterned pocket square and tie. The perfect outfit for any fan of menswear, Olympian or otherwise, for a late July sunset summer cruise down the Seine.” – Larry Curran
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Canada
“The Lululemon collaboration was confusing to me. Not sure how this represented Canada, athletes, or honestly much of anything.” – Emilie Hawtin
Czechia
“The Czech Republic were a personal favorite. The Jan Societe and Alpine Pro-designed rain gear reminded me of a Sterling Ruby work of art, blue blotches on a white background. Modern art meeting functional fashion—is there anything more French?” – Larry Curran
Egypt
“Thankfully Egypt tapped into a traditional look that could have been worn in any decade. A loose, ivory sport coat with red and blue stripes down the sleeve—interesting tuxedo-pant vibe. Original but evergreen enough for athletes to actually wear for a while.” – Emilie Hawtin
Great Britain
“Britain’s Olympic team is well funded and punches well above its weight on the medal table. It also is the country of origin for the traditional opening ceremonies look (a team blazer with a shirt, tie, and light-coloured trousers). Additionally, it is a nation steeped in history and tradition, and its sense of pomp and circumstance is one of its most prominent national characteristics. All of this makes it all the more surprising that its opening ceremony uniforms have nothing at all to do with the history and tradition of the event. They are so casual as to be, in my opinion, almost disrespectful to the occasion.” – Jack Carlson
“As the home of tailoring, I was hoping for more than a Target-esque collection.” – Emilie Hawtin
Haiti
“Haiti’s opening ceremony uniforms, at least for women, are perhaps my favorites of all. Designed by Stella Jean and painter Philippe Dodard, the uniform is pitch-perfect for an Olympic opening ceremony and reflects a very clear understanding of the Parade of Nations tradition—but it also is striking, unusual, thought-provoking, and reflective of Haiti’s own rich culture and history.” – Jack Carlson
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“Gold medal for excellence. I want one of those blue guayabera jackets! A rare occurrence where prints are applied well. The balance of tonal blue and white with geometric painted patterns, plus bandanas and a wide-belted women’s jacket—refined and playful.” – Emilie Hawtin
“Haiti was a sleeper hit; I would wear that jacket with no edits at all. It felt like pure style, with no nod to athletics, and I think there’s something to be said for that versus treating the athletes purely as such.” – Zachary Weiss
Ireland
“I admire the ambition and I like the patches, but to me the finished product reads too much like a gi (a traditional karate uniform).” – Jack Carlson
Jamaica
“The yellow, green, black—their kits were classic and cool in a way other teams seemed to aim for but miss. I could see these looks being worn around Paris, London or New York, on any given day. Plus, the swimsuits—Puma’s shark-repelling dazzle ship motifs aren’t lost on no-nonsense athletes.” – Emilie Hawtin
Kazakhstan
“Very nice! Kazakhstan understood the assignment. The contrast between Kazakhstan and all of the teams wearing some version of a warm-up suit (which may be appropriate for a medal ceremony but not for the Parade of Nations) is striking.” – Jack Carlson
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Mongolia
“Mongolia’s uniform has been much discussed and for good reason. I don’t need to add to the chorus of praise for Mongolia’s uniforms, but I will just note that I agree with all of the positive attention they have received.” – Jack Carlson
“I’ll be curious to see whether Alessandro Michele taps Michel & Amazonka for team Valentino.” – Emilie Hawtin
“They showcased layers of cultural significance and craftsmanship that one could see from 100 yards. The hype over Mongolia’s embroidered jackets is well deserved.” – Greg Lellouche
“Mongolia wins for pageantry, hands down. I loved it.” – Zachary Weiss
Poland
“Together with Haiti’s women’s uniforms, Poland’s uniforms, created by Bizuu, are my favorite of the Games. The cut of both the men’s and women’s blazers are traditional without being stuffy; the print is excellent; and the tennis sweater is absolutely perfect.” – Jack Carlson
South Korea
“I really like South Korea’s belted suits, to my own surprise as much as anyone else’s. Bravo!” – Jack Carlson
South Sudan
“South Sudan’s Olympic uniforms, designed by Moses Turahirwa, are brilliant. Details like the trim on the top edge of the blazer pockets and along the edge of the cuffs are wonderful.” – Jack Carlson
“I’ve heard whispers that ‘summer black’ is trending and will continue to do so but if there was ever any doubt, look no further than South Sudan’s black double-breasted jackets with matching trousers. They looked impeccable, not predictable and could not be beat this evening.” – Larry Curran
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Turkiye
“Turkiye’s striped and piped blazers are very much in the spirit of everything I like. I think the fit and the execution wasn’t quite right, but the concept is very good.” – Jack Carlson
USA
“I’ve been disappointed to read such negative reviews of Ralph Lauren’s brilliant opening ceremony uniforms for Team USA, including The New York Times, where the blazer was a particular object of vilification for its “complicated associations with exclusion and privilege.” In rowing, where the blazer began, it is understood not as a symbol of exclusion or pretentiousness, but as a privilege that is earned often through years of training, teamwork, and perseverance. If I were to suggest any change to the Ralph Lauren uniforms, it would be that the Team USA badge, and not the Ralph Lauren corporate logo, should be on the wearer’s left chest, over the heart, and not the other way around. But this detail aside, the American athletes are surely among the best-dressed at this year’s opening ceremony in their navy blazers” – Jack Carlson
“The distressed denim felt odd for the Opening Ceremony and I found myself asking snarky questions like, “Is the spandex in the jeans made in America? Organic? Could Ralph give us a bit more Laurent and a little less Lauren?” – Larry Curran
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“RL’s classic navy blazer with grosgrain trim for Team USA wouldn’t have been out of place a century ago, but I wish the logos were more discreet, and that it was paired with their signature tailored trousers. Or if they leaned into an unstructured suit. RL is the perfect brand to master 1924 style, they already do it so well with their collection and Polo.” – Emilie Hawtin
“The washed denim on team USA was a bit too on-the-nose Ralph whereas the piped jackets were fantastic.” – Greg Lellouche
“The highlight for me was actually the flag bearers, LeBron James and Coco Gauff in their white jackets. I liked the uniformity of their look, and I loved how they stood out, especially coming up the river at the front of the boat. It was a very powerful image. It felt like a “f*ck yeah” American moment, and I’ll forgive the logos and celebrate that.” – Dan Quigley
“The Ralph Lauren uniforms are the “true north” in Olympic dressing. They invented the concept of elevating the uniform from novelty to enduring style, and this year’s piped blazers and denim were no exception.” – Zachary Weiss
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France
“Real bummer, Berluti. I rarely come across a woman interested in wearing a muscle tee, let alone a muscle blazer. Team France, home to many of the chicest people on earth, would have been better served by pulling from Antoine and Delphine Arnault’s personal suit collection. Wondering why Pharrell wasn’t appointed here.” – Emilie Hawtin
“That shawl collar sleeveless jacket left me perplexed” – Greg Lellouche
“I think the Berluti skewed more evening. I don’t like how they cropped the women’s sleeves, but the men looked like true “hosts” of their own country’s games.” – Zachary Weiss
This story was first published on Robb Report USA
