Although it celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Partimony collection, the timepiece blends ’50s and ’70s-era aesthetics in a timeless minimalist package
Vacheron Constantin just dropped a snazzy new limited-edition US$35,500 timepiece that, at just 100 pieces, will likely sell out fast.
Celebrating the 20th anniversary of its classic Patrimony line, the company tapped French designer, Ora Ïto—known for furniture and industrial design, among others endeavors—to put his lens on the enduring model. Ïto touts a philosophy he calls “Simplexity,” which means he aims to give visual simplicity to complex functions. That doctrine is perfectly aligned with the watchmaking industry and the new 40 mm 18-karat yellow gold Patrimony timepiece is the perfect reflection of the idea.
The surface is minimal, but beneath its “hood” is, of course, the kind of complex watchmaking Vacheron has been know for during the last 269 years of its existence. The golden dial features a sleek design of concentric circles. Ïto, an astronomy enthusiast, says this was inspired by Baily’s Beads, rings of light that accompany an eclipse of the sun by the moon. This, combined with the pearls on the minutes track, applied hour markers, and slightly curved hands, presents an altogether vintage appeal that will have longtime Vacheron enthusiasts clamoring to get their hands on the new model. It may look easy, but the barely visible curve of the dial requires stamping so nuanced, it must be accurate to the nearest micron, while the curved hands, hour makers, and pearl minutes are all manually retouched. Meanwhile, the burgundy calfskin strap is accented with raised rectangular shapes for a subtly funky touch. The burgundy letters of the date window tie into the strap (although we can’t help but think it would have been ever so slightly sleeker without that addition).
Beating beneath is the in-house self-winding Hallmark of Geneva Caliber 2450 adorned with circular graining on the mainplate, Côte de Genève on the bridges, and an openworked gold oscillating weight with the brand’s signature Maltese Cross. At just 3.60 mm thick, the movement keeps the case thickness to a mere 8.55 mm—in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s long heritage of ultra-thin timekeeping. (It’s famed Caliber 1003, which debuted in 1955, was the world’s thinnest movement at the time at just 1.64 mm thick.)
Consider it a full circle moment. In a time where design-forward timepieces with vintage appeal are positively on fire with collectors worn thin by the once never-ending hype around steel sports watches, acquiring this yellow gold dress watch will be a coup for any savvy collector. The fact that it is limited to just 100 pieces makes the proposition, of course, that much more desirable.
This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Vacheron Constantin