The geometrically artful Hermès Cut collection boasts subtle refinement and razor-sharp chic
Who knew geometry could be this exciting? While the study of shapes and angles has never been the most intriguing part of academia for us, it seems the designers at Hermès grew up paying rapt attention in class. Not only that, they also seemed to have mastered the rules well enough to bend them, evinced by the luxury house’s latest watch collection called Cut.
The collection may not scream for attention at first glance. The four 36mm stainless steel or steel-and-gold watches eschew the daring of the Maison’s H08 collection from 2021 and the forthright symbolism of Arceau. Instead, these timepieces exude a quiet charm that gradually grows on you the more time you spend with them.
The first thing you’ll notice about the Cut collection is the unique silhouette. The case is round, but not circular. Rather, the sides of the case are bevelled—giving the appearance of a circular watch that has had its sides cleanly cut off, as its name suggests. In reality, the bevelled edges resemble a gradual shave rather than a clean cut—but of course, naming your watch Shave doesn’t have an alluring ring to it.
Adding to the geometrical intrigue of the collection is the stepped, circular bezel. It’s a clever design choice, softening the edges of the bevelled case while adding considerable depth and dimension to the timepieces. The added depth is greatly appreciated, making the 36mm watches—small by contemporary standards—look larger when on the wrist. If you prefer a touch of glitter, you can opt for the stainless steel model set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, or go for the two-tone options, which feature a rose gold bezel with or without diamonds.
Near the 2 o’clock position of the case, you’ll find a fluted crown that has an H in orange lacquer for the steel models and engraved for the two-tone models. It is an unconventional crown placement, adding a unique touch to an already quirky silhouette.
What’s most impressive about the case, however, is Hermès’ use of polished and brushed surfaces that give the timepieces a dynamic quality when hit by light. From above, the timepieces appear to be entirely satin-brushed, giving them an almost industrial-looking finish. Turn the watches to one side, however, and you’ll see that the circular bezel and elliptical sides of the case are highly polished, resulting in a watch that softly shimmers with light as you move your wrist.
Complementing this dynamic play with light is an opaline, silver-tone dial adorned with polished applied Arabic numerals. The new, original font used for the numerals is gently rounded to match the watches’ silhouette and has an almost animated quality—appearing to move fluidly from one marker to the next. Coupled with the rounded font, the pop of orange on the central minute track and the counterweight on the seconds hand lend the stainless steel models an air of casual sportiness. The two-tone models, meanwhile, do without the colour—opting for a restrained and sophisticated look instead.
The collection’s versatility extends to the bracelet and straps. You have the option of an integrated steel bracelet with rounded edges that seamlessly blends with the case, featuring the same combination of polished and satin-brushed links. Should you wish for a casual and sportive look, you can easily swap the bracelet for one of the eight vibrant rubber strap options; white, orange, gris perle (pearl grey), gris etain (tin grey), glycine (wisteria), vert criquet (cricket green), bleu jean (denim blue) and capucine (red).
Powering the Cut watches is the same H1912 calibre that is also used in the maison’s Arceau collection. The movement delivers a 50-hour power reserve and is decorated modestly— with circular graining on the mainplate and H motifs adorning the bridges and rotor.
Hermès may have named this collection Cut for good reason, but with its amalgamation of mechanical performance and geometrically inspired allure, these watches will most certainly add to, rather than subtract from, your wrist game.
This story first appeared in the August 2024 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
