From a groundbreaking hairspring to a poetic moonphase complication, TAG Heuer debuts timepieces that redefine technical performance and spark the imagination
TAG Heuer lives up to its billing as a proponent of forward-thinking watchmaking at Geneva Watch Days 2025. The Swiss luxury watch titan introduces a pair of striking creations: one that seeks to redefine mechanical horology, and the other that draws inspiration from the heavens.
The star of the showcase is the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, a hairspring developed entirely in-house. A vital part of a mechanical watch’s regulating organ, the hairspring—a flat, coiled metal spring that expands and contracts rhythmically—is essentially what makes a timepiece tick.
Throughout history, watchmaking houses have sought to improve the hairspring’s anti-magnetism, temperature stability, and robustness by crafting it from closely guarded materials. These range from steel and iron-nickel alloys to modern iterations in synthetic compounds such as silicon or niobium-zirconium.
With the patented TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer breaks new ground not only through its carbon-based construction, but also in the way it is shaped and oscillates. The result of almost a decade of development, the TH-Carbonspring meets every key demand of performance, including resistance to magnetism and shock, as well as lightweight construction that enhances chronometric precision.
To showcase this innovation, TAG Heuer has turned to two of its most recognisable lines. The Monaco Flyback Chronograph and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport have been reimagined in forged carbon, their dials adorned with spiral motifs that echo the oscillator within. Both limited to 50 pieces, the Monaco Flyback Chronograph is powered by the calibre TH20-60 with an 80-hour reserve, while the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport is driven by the calibre TH20-61.
If the TH-Carbonspring points to TAG Heuer’s future, the new Carrera Astronomer casts its gaze skyward. Comprising three 39mm dress watches, the unique moonphase feature portrays seven distinct lunar stages with scientific clarity. The Calibre 7 movement advances the moon disc daily at 1am, aligning precisely with the lunar cycle. The references include a stainless steel model with a silver dial, a sporty version with turquoise accents, and a two-tone steel and rose-gold variant.
Whether fuelled by celestial poetry or a new dawn in technical watchmaking, TAG Heuer reminds us that time never quite stands still at the cutting-edge of horology.
