Timely horological acquisitions to help you start the Lunar New Year of the Horse in good spirits
This is a sentiment we are certainly not betting against. Astrologers are forecasting a season of ambition and opportunity in the Year of the Horse—qualities long associated with the namesake Chinese zodiac animal—encouraging those under its influence to embrace new adventures and finally act on bold decisions long deferred as the Lunar New Year unfolds.
On the horological front, the great names of Swiss watchmaking are also playing their part in ushering in good fortune. From refined artisanal crafts to auspicious hues, here are the contenders worth considering as you arm yourself for the year ahead.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse
IWC Schaffhausen certainly knows its Chinese collectors well with this forthright Year of the Horse commemorative edition. Measured yet hitting the spot, the 500-piece Portugieser Automatic 42 in stainless steel brandishes a deep red dial—a colour that symbolises good fortune—lending cultural resonance without tipping into theatrics.
Legibility remains key to the design. The familiar bi-compax layout, with the seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and the power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, is joined by a discreet date display at the base of the dial. Powering the watch is IWC’s in-house calibre 52011 with a seven-day power reserve, anchored by an oscillating weight sculpted in the shape of a horse.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’
Elegant, regal and deceptively pared-down. Jaeger-LeCoultre throws its hat into the ring of commemorative Year of the Horse must-haves with what seems like a fail-safe option. A 10-piece limited edition Reverso—the brand’s most iconic watch bearing its famed reversible case—crafted in shiny yellow gold with a black grand feu enamel dial and the obligatory horse motif.
But as always with Jaeger-LeCoultre, the pay-off is in the details. And once you get into the watch with a loupe, the rewards are immense. Flip the case and a sculpted horse emerges from textured clouds, the result of 80 hours of patient handwork. Using multiple chisels, the engraver shapes the relief directly onto an enamelled surface, an exercise in exacting control. Accents on the mane, muzzle, and hooves are picked out in black rhodium, lending the creature a sense of movement and character. In a year that celebrates galloping drive, this is Jaeger-LeCoultre reminding us that true power, as ever, lies in quiet, uncompromising mastery.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac
The world’s oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin, is in assured form with the latest addition to its Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac series. Comprising two limited editions, each capped at 25 pieces in either platinum or pink gold, the collection shines the spotlight on the watchmaking house’s decorative craftsmanship and knack for mechanically inspired visual drama.
The 40mm case frames a dial conceived as a miniature tableau, where relief engraving, hand-painted enamel, and high-temperature firing techniques converge. A horse captured in mid-motion emerges against a layered backdrop, brought to life through fastidious handwork by the brand’s artisans. The absence of traditional hands opens up the dial visually. Powering the display is the automatic Calibre 2460 G4, which presents time and calendar indications via discreet peripheral apertures, reinforcing the watch’s considered balance between mechanics and art.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Year of the Horse
With TAG Heuer’s racing heritage and DNA, it’s too tempting not to point out the natural affinity that exists between the brand’s automotive-inspired world—with its racetracks and horsepower—and, well, the equine.
Rendered in a striking combination of champagne-gold and fiery red, the 39mm Carrera Glassbox Chronograph possesses a vintage-like allure. A defining feature of the brand’s Glassbox series, the domed crystal is drawn from the watchmaking language of the 1960s, which includes the brand’s early Carrera models. This yesteryear aesthetic is further accentuated by the watch’s champagne-gold dial that oozes old-world charm. Striking pop of red on the chronograph counter and date window adds just the right amount of auspiciousness without overwhelming the composition. For a touch of whimsy for good measure, the numeral 7 on the date module is replaced by the Chinese character for horse.
Harry Winston Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm
Of course, Harry Winston will bring glamour to any Lunar New Year party. The self-professed “King of Diamonds” has pulled out all the stops and hit all the right notes with a watch dressed in luscious red to symbolise luck, anchored by a gorgeous rendition of a horse striding through the clouds and, as expected, festooned with a lot of diamonds.
The watch is lavished with over 2.5 carats of diamonds—151 brilliant-cuts on the 36mm rose gold case, along with eight marquise-cuts and one emerald-cut on the dial. The shower of glitter is only part of the show. The dial, too, is a work of art. Here, a horse is depicted in mid-leap among clouds and stars, rendered with hand-applied lacquer against a sky crafted in iridescent mother-of-pearl and gold stars, and clouds made of mother-of-pearl marquetry. With the watch limited to just eight units worldwide, it is fair to assume that one needs a stroke of fortune to land a piece.
