From the penny to the tassel to the horsebit, we’ve scoped out the best slip-ons for this season
Laces—who needs them? Certainly not the men who’ve ditched their oxfords and brogues in favour of that most casual category of non-sneaker shoe, the loafer.
Its earliest example can be traced back to English shoemaker Raymond Lewis Wildsmithm who in 1926 designed a simple, slip-on leather house shoe for King George VI. But the most recognizable style of loafer originated in Aurland, Norway, in 1930, when one Nils Gregoriussen Tveranger decided to combine the techniques of traditional Native American moccasin construction with the design of a simple shoe worn by local fisherman.
The easy-wearing style was a hit with international travelers, and by 1936 Maine’s G.H. Bass began to produce a similar design under the name “Weejun,” a slangy shortening of “Norwegian.” Weejuns soon caught on with Northeastern prep school students, who were said to store pennies in the shoe’s diamond-shaped saddle slot, giving birth to the penny loafer.
It became ubiquitous sight on the feet of American college students and jazz musicians, both of whom prized it for its easy, laid-back appeal. In the years to come the design would be updated with a tassel detail by Alden and a brass snaffle bit by Gucci but would remain at its heart breezy and casual.
At a time when such qualities are more prized (and socially acceptable) than ever, the loafer remains an essential footwear category a century after its creation. To that end, we’ve gathered some of the worthiest examples of the style today, from established makers like Alden and Gucci to newcomers including August Special and Morjas.
Alden Burgundy No.8 Shell Cordovan Tassel Loafer
Alden is a legendary name in American shoemaking, having continuously produced footwear in Middleborough, Mass., since 1884. In that time, they’ve originated dozens of styles, but none may be more infamous than their tassel loafer, whose wearers George H.W. Bush famously blamed for his electoral defeat in 1992 (Bill Clinton earned the vote of “Every lawyer that every wore a tasseled loafer,” Poppy quipped). Politics aside, there is a certain jauntiness to the style, which combines the dressier and more tapered shape of the maker’s Aberdeen last with its titular decorative detail. And it’s arguably never better than when it’s made from eggplant-purple No.8 shell cordovan sourced from Chicago’s legendary Horween Leather Co.
Crockett & Jones Harvard 2
The Harvard 2 is C&J’s nod to the scholastic appeal of the penny loafer. The English maker has built it on its 376 last, which is notable for combining a rounded toe and a close-fitting heel (good news for anyone who plans to wear them sans-socks). Optimized for travel, the Harvard 2 also features a soft and flexible milled calf upper, and a discreet rubber “city sole” more friendly to rain-slicked streets.
Morjas the Ivy Loafer
As far as footwear is concerned, it doesn’t get much more Ivy than the penny loafer—and few loafers are as Ivy as this aptly named style from Morjas. It recaptures the sporty, easygoing appeal of mid-century penny loafers via considered design choices like a shorter vamp, a more rounded toe shape, and a 360-degree welt—factors that make it just as wearable with a pair of jeans or dress trousers. Get it on Mr Porter.
Gucci Men’s Horsebit 1953 loafer
Alternatively loved or loathed, the bit loafer exists as an entire footwear sub-category today. But it originated in 1953 with Gucci, which first had the idea of applying a brass decoration shaped like a horsebit snaffle where the pennykeeper would otherwise lie. In time, it would become a favorite of both Wall Street yuppies and London’s “Sloane Ranger” set. Gucci offers over a half-dozen varieties of bit loafers today, including the “1953” model that faithfully reproduces the details and dimensions of the original. Available on Mr Porter.
August Special Augie Type-S
Loafers are a particularly nostalgic footwear category, with many models hearkening back to a particular moment in the style’s history. By contrast, newcomer August Special has created something wholly new with its flagship Augie loafer. Made in Italy from supple calfskin with a hand-sewn vamp stitch, it’s at once minimal and elegant. But its most intriguing feature may be its padded foam midsole, which is cleverly wrapped in tonal calf leather and provides sneaker-like comfort.
Edward Green Piccadilly Suede Penny Loafers
There’s a debate about whether loafers are ever a proper complement to a suit—but there’s no question that Edward Green’s Piccadilly pennies can hold their own with the sharpest of tailoring. Chalk it up to the Northampton-made style’s sleeker topline, more angular shape and chiseled toe. Prior to construction, its leather soles are tanned on a mixture of oak, spruce and mimosa bark that upgrades their quality of comfort and durability. Available on Mr Porter.
Rancourt Beefroll Penny Loafers Color 8
Rancourt’s “Beefroll” loafer—so-called because of the leather rolls on each side of its pennykeeper—is the penny loafer at its most casual and laid-back. Made in Maine with a genuine moccasin construction, the style is left unlined and built from a pliant, supple “pull up” leather that will mold to the foot with wear. As that leather naturally stretches over time, the maker recommends that the style be ordered a half-size down from the wearer’s typical size.
This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Chandler Bondurant
